Waskerley Way – A Route Created and a Route Destroyed
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Start: Waskerley Station Picnic area, Waskerley Village (GR NZ051454)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer 307 – Consett and Derwent Reservoir
When one takes stock of the current national situation regarding rambling, routes available and access there is no doubt whatsoever that the situation is immeasurably better than it was back in the 1960s when l started walking. Indeed there is now a plethora of guide books and walking and climbing magazines. However although there has been a significant improvement on many minor paths which is currently under some pressure as local authorities try to cut costs, the real downside is the destruction of many old routes in remote places by 4WD vehicles and Trail Bikes. Some of this is indeed legal but many of us will have had peace and tranquility destroyed in remote places by trail bikes and sometimes 4WD used illegally.
The whole situation is quite complex and the key as to whether they can use routes is ‘historical use’ and whether in the past there has been regular use on certain routes such as BOATs (Byways Open to All Traffic). Obviously Bridleways, often illegally used, are for walkers, cyclists and horses only. There is a range of designations and terms in use and these can be found on both the website of the Yorkshire Dales Green Lane Alliance (YDGLA) and the Peak District Green Lane Alliance (PDGLA). The former was set up about 10 years ago following the destruction of many of the famous Yorkshire Green Lanes which can be found throughout the Dales. Some, such as Mastiles Lane, are quite rightly famous among the outdoor fraternity. The YDGLA has been very successful and has saved many routes where Traffic Regulation Orders (TROs) have been established, which can either stop or limit vehicular access. The PDGLA is much more recent but they have managed to get a TRO on Chapel Gate which links to the start of the Pennine Way.
Here in Co Durham the position has been much quieter although there are currently six BOATs where a claim has been made to legalise motorised transport. This is currently under discussion with amenity groups, wildlife groups and the landowners all being opposed. A decision will probably be made within the next year when the barristers have had their say. We will be walking on part of one of these routes in this walk.
The walk starts at Waskerley village (or what little remains of it). Before starting have a look inside the church where Dave Liddle, a DCC Ranger, has mounted an interesting display of some of the history of the village and the railway. The line originally opened in 1834 to carry limestone from Stanhope and coal from further down the line to the Tyne at South Shields. The Consulting Engineer was Robert Stephenson. It was not built on an Act of Parliament but on a succession of wayleaves with the landowners. Their extortionate demands led to the closure in 1840. The line then reopened on September 1st 1845 under two owners: the section from Stanhope to Consett was under the ownership of the Derwent Iron company to safeguard their supplies of limestone, whilst the section from Consett to the Tyne became the Pontop Tyne Railway. The Derwent section was rough terrain and there was engine houses at Crawley and Wetherill to raise the waggons from Stanhope to the moors. Just past Waskerley the line went to the north of the current track to eventually reach Hownes Gill via Nanny Mayers incline which was self acting where waggons descending pulled others up. There was an ale house here kept by the aforementioned lady and her grave can be seen in Muggleswick churchyard. Hownes Gill was also difficult where the waggons were lowered down an incline and up the other side to reach level ground.
Waskerley Engine Shed
The situation improved tremendously when the Stockton and Darlington Railway opened a line through Crook and Tow Law to Burnhill where it joined up with the Derwent Iron Railway. An S & D marker will be seen towards the end of the walk. This new line eliminated the Nanny Mayers incline route (which can still be traced on the ground) and the construction of the superb Hownes Gill Viaduct was another great step forward. The line was the highest standard gauge line in the country. However the low density of population passenger numbers were negligible and the line closed to passengers as long ago as 1859, although unauthorised passengers were carried well into the 20th century! The line eventually closed on August 2nd 1965. The inclines at Crawley and Wetherill were in use throughout and it is a pity that one winding engine could not have been retained for posterity.
The closure also saw the end of Waskerley Village which was entirely a railway community and the houses were demolished. A litle known fact is that during WW2 people were evacuated here and recently we met a chap who had been there as a child until 1947 when he returned to the Tyne. All that remains now are two farms, the church and the goods shed.
All this is history but l am sure that all those who worked on this railway would approve of its current use as a bridleway well used by walkers and some horseriders, but most significantly by cyclists as it is part of the famous C2C route which brings business and some employment to the area. The credit for this must go initially to DCC for creating so many fine routes on abandoned railway lines and to Sustrans for developing and publicising the route. What a pity that other County Councils were not as far sighted!
We walk down the route past the old goods shed. The sides of this railway are a haven for butterflies and a list of the rare ones are on an interpretation board but some to be found are small pearl bordered fritillary, speckled wood, small heath, dingy skipper, green veined white and orange tip. Quite a collection! Keep an eye open for a specially themed DCC walk to see these butterflies. Near to the Information Board can be found frog orchids. Near this spot is also memorial seat for Ian Patterson, a DCC Voluntary Ranger, who sadly died whilst out walking in this area.
You soon reach a spot where the path bends back on itself acutely and this is where the Derwent Iron met the S & D. There was obviously a manouevre here to arrange the change of direction but current work on the C2C is constructing an easier route which historically is a pity in some ways. Presumably the original route will also stay open with access by a stile.
At Red House leave the line and head north-east, passing a bungalow on your left. The house to the right over the field called Bee Cottage Farm is served by a telephone link to Consett and this l am told is one of the longest in the country! For the last mile you will have noticed some old fences next to the track. This site was previously occupied by the Ministry of Defence and served as a military stores for both WW1 and WW2.
After a right turn you arrive at Oxen Law. This is on the line of an old pack horse route which probably carried salt as there is a Salters Gate to the south. The route was also a drovers route presumably for bringing cattle down from Scotland after the Falkirk Tryst. Heading north this is one of the BOATs mentioned earlier. The route has a hard surface for the first two fields and then skirts Whitehall Moss to arrive back at the railway. Not so long ago this was a turf track which is now deeply rutted and filled with water directly caused by vehicle usage. The original plan was to continue down towards the original track of Nanny Meyer but access is very difficult so we will continue down the Waskerley Way to Whitehall picnic area. Here turn left down the road for a short distance and then follow the footpath down to the Watergate Burn and a further picnic spot.
Looking across the valley of the Watergate Burn from the junction with Healeyfield Lane.
An alternative is to stay on the road to Healeyfield and just past the farm take the footpath north at GR 068483. Keep the woods on your left and eventually reach Dene Howl. This area was part of Healeyfield Lead mine and Dene Howl was the site of lead washing screens. There were deep shafts here up to 60 fathoms (360ft) deep and which were used to drain water. 10,000 tons of lead were extracted here with an average of 15 grams of silver per ton. Healeyfield is derived from a field near a high clearing whilst nearby Castleside was named after a local farmer called Castle. Dene Howl can also be reached from Watergate Picnic area GR 077465 by a good track.
We follow the access road from the farm west and at the road turn uphill passing through Springwell to Healeyfield Lane Head west along the road for a short distance and cross the stile on your right. We now go diagonally left down the field to cross the Horsleyhope Burn by a footbridge. Be careful as its very slippy! Climb up the other side, cross the stile and reach Low Horsleyhope which was derelict until recently. It was sold by auction in 2011 and is being restored. Watch out for hares around here. The waymarked route heads uphill past Middle Horsleyhope and High Horsleyhope to reach Goldhill. A footpath sign here would be handy but go into the back of the farm and exit to the left. There is now a good track to Carp Shield in glorious scenery and here again a footpath sign would be useful so you know to go round the back of the farm by the small gate on the right and then through a large gate. Ahead is Cushat Leazes, an atmospheric ruin, which is a very pleasant spot.
Smiddy Shaw Reservoir and S & D Marker Stone
Head south to the access land stile and take the path to the right following the wall and at the corner cross Backstone Burn. In front of you is the dam wall for Smiddy Shaw reservoir built in 1877 along with Waskerley and Hishope which actually feeds Smiddy Shaw. All three go to the Treatment works at Honey Hill and when this supply is insufficient water can be taken from Burnhope by gravity and from the Tyne Tees pipeline. Cross the Hisehope feeder near to The Pike and continue south-west to reach the main road at Hawkburn Head and then the Waskerley Way which is followed downhill back to the start. Keep an eye open for the S & D marker on your left. About 400 yards before Waskerley is a memorial seat to Muriel Gallagher who was a resident of Waskerley and it was her husband’s company who demolished the houses of Waskerley village. Also on your right is a fenced-off area which is a juniper plantation where there is an explanation board. In the light of the current problem with the junipers in Teesdale we may well need more of these in the future.
This walk has a bit of everything with wide-ranging views, historical interest and old railways but it also shows the difficulties of upland sheep farmers where properties are for sale or have been abandoned. Thanks are due to Brian Page a Voluntary Ranger of DCC and Dave Liddle a full time Ranger for DCC who have provided some of the information on this walk.
Book Review: “Cleveland Way” by Gordon Simm & Jacquette Megarry
Filed under: OtherI am a fan of the walking guides produced by Rucksack Readers and recently reviewed their “Hadrian’s Wall Path” book, written by the same team. Their ethos of keeping things brief but at the same time succinct, and also producing the books on water resistant paper is a winner. Furthermore the size of the book fits easily into most pockets.
Howver I am somewhat surprised that they chose to produce a book on the Cleveland Way. Rucksack Readers have produced many fine books on popular areas of the world such as the Inca Trail and many in the UK and in addition manage to publish books on some lesser trails particularly in Scotland some of which my own group intend to walk someday.
The Cleveland Way was our second long distance path (now called National Trails) and opened in May 1969 some four years after the Pennine Way. My personal opinion is that it does not get the recognition that it deserves. I live quite close to most of the route, some sections of which l have walked many times, and it is a superb route best appreciated on clear days due to its extensive views often over much of northern England. Possibly its location in the North East has meant that walkers often plump for walks nearer to where they live and this is illustrated by a group I sometimes join whose home area is Devon. They have been in existence for over 30 years, have an Annual Walk either in the UK or in Europe and it has taken them to this year before they selected the Cleveland Way. Needless to say they enjoyed it immensely and in this dire year for excess rain they had virtually a dry walk as this area has some of the lowest rainfall figures in the UK!
The reason that I am surprised by the choice of the Cleveland Way is that this is probably the easiest National Trail to follow without having to use large scale maps. For almost its entire length it follows the Cleveland escarpment and then on reaching the coast follows the magnificent cliffs south to end at Filey. Indeed these cliffs are easily the highest on the east coast and as a consequence route finding is easy. I note myself that I am still using the National Trail Guide of Alan Falconer from 1972 which probably illustrates my point that the book tends to get used for historical data etc. and not for route finding in difficult conditions. Furthermore there are already two other Guide books on this walk, these being the Official Guide and one by Paddy Dillon on Cicerone. The latter also includes the Wolds Way and the Tabular Hills, which take you on a fine route back towards the start at Helmsley.
This Rucksack Readers book maintains their high standards though. The pages on Heritage are good with a fine section on the geology of the area and the iron and alum which were mined in the areas through which the path passes. The illustrations are superb and there are 90 colour photos which means that on completion you can refresh your memory of the walk. I particularly like the section on the History of the Cleveland Way which highlights the work of the pioneers as much of the walk has been used from the early days of leisure walking in England.
It would be good to see further information on altitude climbed each day as the section from Osmotherley to Clay Bank will give rise to some tired limbs! On that day the diversion to Mount Grace Abbey (National Trust) is only for the fit as it involves a descent back to the Vale of York and in any case deserves quality time to be spent there. The diversion to Guisborough is recommended as this is a fine small town, but do not get Cleveland Street which is used for part of the way back onto the way, with the Cleveland Way itself.
In future l will be using this guide when on the Cleveland Way partly to conserve my Falconer, which has memories and dates of some lovely days with old friends, but also because l likethis book which has all the information that l need in a compact format which can be easily used on windy days.
Cleveland Way ISBN 978-1-898481-55-3
Published by Rucksack Readers Price £10.99
Sadly since penning this review the author Gordon Simm, whose knowledge of the Cleveland Hills and North Yorkshire Moors National Park was profound, went missing on a gorge walk near Nerja on the Costa del Sol in Spain and has not been found. Any further information on this tragic situation can be found at http://www.rucsacs.com/authors/Gordon-Simm
Wolsingham to Frosterley on Lesser-Known Paths
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 miles
Start: Demense Mill, Wolsingham (NZ GR 076375)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer 31 – Teesdale and Weardale
This walk was conceived as an example to show walkers who normally go on guided walks that it can be enjoyable to sit with a map and construct your own walk. The idea was that at each junction we would discuss the next place on the route and where to go. I had anticipated that l would have done a reccy to prevent any serious problems arising and be aware of any unexpected changes that be be required. However when the day dawned l had been out of the area for three weeks, and for the first time in ten years of guided walks, there were several areas which l had not walked in the past. This gave the walk and the plan some authenticity. The idea was to follow the route using a Pathfinder map which all walkers should have with them when they set out. For this reason l never include a map with my information sheet but do give grid references at tricky places. Of course we all know that what is on the map is not always on the ground but at the same time l always suggest caution when things are not what it seems. It is too easy to say the map is wrong. Are you sure that you know exactly where you are?
We started at Demesne Mill in Wolsingham by the side of the Waskerley Beck and since the route leaves Wolsingham immediately there is no preamble about the fine dales township of Wolsingham. The start is clear up the west bank of the burn. At the end of the first field are the remains of the old mill race which brought water over 500 metres from a weir across the beck to power the grinding stones at Demesne Mill. After a few hundred yards where the Waskerley Beck turns sharply north a small tributary burn (Thornhope Beck) is crossed by a footbridge called Jack Walker bridge. A short while after there is a split of paths and we leave the Waskerley Beck and head north-west alongside a line of trees growing in an equally old hedge to reach the road leading to Tunstall Reservoir. Note some quite old trees on this path, in particular a fine old oak tree.
At the road is the first of the lesser paths to be walked. It goes to Park Wall and continues in the same direction to that you have already been walking. It is known locally as the Long Dyke. The obvious path is the one directly in front of you which is the access road/track to Fawnlees Hall and the other Fawnlee but our path is a few yards to the north with the waymark partly hidden by the hedge. This is a waymarked track but is not clear on the ground which does not matter as the route is through a large field. The two paths run parallel for just over one mile and are only about 150 yards apart. To be fair the one direct to Park Walls, which we are on, can be a bit wet after a prolonged wet spell and the Fawnlees track is good underfoot taking wheeled traffic. However, the smaller path arguably has better views looking north towards Tunstall Reservoir.
Just before the ruins of Park Wall house, which was a thatched building similar to the one at Levy Pool on the Pennine Way to the north of Bowes, is an enormous stile to get you over the walls of the old hunting park of the Bishop of Durham which date back to 1274. After crossing the stile we now go in a south-west direction through a gate. There is an indistinct path possibly created by livestock which skirts Park Wall Plantation and crosses the open pasture to the south-west corner of the large field you are walking through. A slight change to south-by-south-west in the next field continues the route slightly downhill to a stile leading on to a clear track at the corner of the plantation called Ladley Woods. Here is a genuine case where the map does not match the footpath, which has disappeared. On the OS map the plantation is shown as standing, whereas in fact it has been harvested and replanted. There is no stile into the plantation although it does appear that there could be a way through to the south alongside the eastern edge of the new plantation. The only problem is that this is in the wrong direction to the bridge over Thornhope Beck at GR049386 where we are heading. We therefore opted to follow the wheeled track along the north of the wood before turning directly south to the bridge. This was not clear on the ground and obviously rarely walked. However halfway down towards the bridge we found a waymark in the long vegetation which indicates there has been a diversion here. Take care as the bridge can be very slippy when wet. This is a delightful spot and once over the bridge we then cross a stile into a field.
Barn and abandoned farmhouse at Ladley. Looking across the wooded valley of Thornhope Beck.
The ruins of Ladley are if front of you to the south-west and a large field is crossed to go through a gate to the derelict farmhouse. Continue in the same direction over the next field, through the acute corner of the next field and descend slowly down to a wall, which is crossed. In front of you are the farm buildings of Newlands Hall. The map indicates that you enter the farmyard from the west and exit from the east but on the ground the way is clearly past the east side. This is a better way and keeps walkers away from the farmyard. Head south towards the A689 and at the end of the first field on your left follow the waymark to the left and head east for a short distance to the field boundary where there is a divergence of paths. Take the one south-east diagonally across a field then down to the road at Halfway House. All of this route is waymarked. Now head east along the road, utilising the good verge, and then cross over to the road to a lane (which crosses the River Wear) into a caravan site. Almost immediately you then cross over the Weardale Railway and head south to Holebeck House. Do not cross the Hole Beck as this leads you to Coves House Farm. Our route heads uphill on the east side of Hole Beck which is the access to Sunniside Farm. I suggest you ignore the first footpath at the mining remains which leads to the farm, and continue on the main access which crosses the beck by a substantial bridge. Look out for the stone circle on the right that the owner has built as a landscape feature and also the sheep skulls in the wall with the reflector eyes. Sunniside Farm is a Grade 2 Listed Building and has been beautifully restored by the owner with several quirky features in the garden including a dinosaurs nest.
After passing through the farmyard you exit by the gate to the west and cross a small rivulet on your right to head west where you arrive at a good track. The footpath should continue in the same direction but here there is no stile or waymark whatsoever. A search around the vicinity revealed nothing else. There has been a small wood planted here with indigenous trees which is possibly a shelter belt for pheasants and there is a stile at the end of this new development. After crossing and proceeding for a short distance you can drop down the bridleway from Coves House Farm to East Biggins. In fact if the track which was ignored earlier is taken downhill this bridleway can be picked up to make a better way for both the landowner and the walker but my map does not indicate this. East Biggins is another Grade 2 Listed Building and you go through the farmyard emerging on a good track which the owners use for their access. This track is followed downhill to West Biggins with its resident peacocks. Last year we passed a farm in Yorkshire which specialised in the breeding of these birds and was a business none of us had thought about.
We now head uphill in a south-west direction initially on a good track to cross over the steep sided Harehope Burn to arrive at Harehope Farm. After passing the first buildings turn right on the waymarked route through a gate and follow the track through two large fields alongside the burn. Towards the bottom turn right over the burn which hereabouts soon joins the Bollihope Burn. The scenery on the way down from Harehope, especially towards west towards Bollihope, is superb Dales scenery. Just over the bridge is an Interpretation Board on Harehope Gill Mine which extracted lead from the Broadwood Cross and Slitt veins. It closed about 1890 as it became unproductive. There was a waterwheel on Harehope Gill which powered the underground engine shaft and the foundations of this still survive. You are now on a version of the Weardale Way which runs alongside and above Harehope Quarry (now worked out) but before doing so it is worthwhile to drop down from the Information Board on the path to see the outcrop of Frosterley marble in the bed of the Bollihope Burn. This is observed directly under the good bridge leading back up to the Weardale Way and the quarry edge. This marble, which is a metamorphosed limestone and not a true marble, has been much used in many famous buildings including our own Durham Cathedral. There is a font in Frosterley Church made of the marble which was rescued from a church in Gainsborough in Lincolnshire about 1990.
Footbridge over Bollihope Burn, showing exposures of water-worn Frosterley Marble, a fossiliferous grey limestone, below the bridge.
Harehope Quarry is now run as a workers cooperative offering environmental education, field studies, rural skills etc. Their objective is to show a more sustainable form of living and they recently won a Gold Award from a Green Tourism Business Scheme. The Weardale Way runs along the top edge of the quarry and at the end descends down a track to the entrance to the quarry where there is an Interpretation Board on the project. Here the Weardale Way leaves the old road to the quarry and continues east of a good track eastwards passing Landieu Farm and then continues along the main track to arrive back at the bridge over the Wear used earlier in the walk. It is now necessary to retrace your way back along the A689 to Halfway House where you cross the stile and make your way back uphill towards Newlands Farm. At the junction where you previously headed south now head east on a waymarked path that is again a lesser used path. This path returns to Wolsingham and crosses nearly twenty small narrow fields so there is a surplus of stiles and this is possibly the reason for the limited use. The path is known locally as “Miles of Stiles”. The narrow fields are an example of medieval strip fields and before being split up were part of the West Field, hence the name of the farm just to the south of our path. The way is well waymarked and is easy to follow to arrive at Leazes Lane (the Tunstall road) next to Wolsingham Comprehensive School. After crossing the road continue east on a pleasant tarmac path to the south of the school and arrive at the church, from where it is a short distance over a field back to the start.
As an example of how to find new paths you could possibly say that this route was a failure as some problems arose but on the other hand this was a pleasant walk which will now become a more regular Durham County Council Guided Walk and l can recommend it. There are no shops, pubs or refeshments en-route but there is much fine scenery, pleasant corners and a wealth of wildlife and plant life.
Hedleyhope Fell and Satley
Filed under: OtherDistance: 11 miles
Start: Cornsay Village (GR NZ146435)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer 307 – Consett and Derwent Reservoir
This walk starts at the small village of Cornsay which occupies a quiet spot above the Browney valley on quiet minor roads. It has a pleasant village green with a notable feature which at first glance looks a bit like a medieval gaol. It is in fact called the Well House and was built in 1743. Cornsay is passed on the Southern Hills above Lanchester walk but this walk uses entirely different paths to the south of Cornsay. The route starts at the south of the village street going through South Farm in a south-west direction to reach the road at GR 137427 through a small wood. Here we turn left for a very short distance to then turn into Stow House farm which is now housing. At the end of the second field you turn left to Lodge House Farm and Cowsley Lane, which is crossed and the field path taken to Cowsley. The road is then taken down to the bridge over Cuddy Burn.
Here we are at the corner of Hedleyhope Fell which is owned and managed by the Durham Wildlife Trust from their HQ at Rainton Meadows from where they administer 25 reserves. Hedleyhope Fell Nature Reserve is one of the largest examples of mid-altitude heathlands in County Durham. What is special about these mid-altitude sites is the fact that due to their situation between upland moorland and lowland heath they attract plants and animals from both habitats. Over the 20th century they have become quite rare due to the land being used for forestry, mining and agricultural improvement and the few remaining sites became neglected with consequent encroachment from bracken and scrub. Indeed efforts are being made to create new sites on old mining land such as Blackburn Fell near to the Tanfield Railway.
Hedleyhope Fell Nature Reserve
The typical plants found are bell heather, common heather, crossed leaf heath and gorse and Hedleyhope has all of these plus areas of rush pasture and a few scattered trees as well as crowberry and bilberry. There are also some rarer species such as adders tongue fern. The fauna is obviously influenced by the plants and consequent food available and has nesting peewit, skylark, snipe, curlew, oystercatcher and short eared owl. I also believe that black grouse can be found here whilst at various times of the year stonechat and long eared owls can be seen. Reptiles found are adder, slow worm and lizard and over twenty species of butterfly have been recorded.
Management primarily consists of preventing encroachment from invasive plants which would change its character and eventually lead back to woodland and this is done by selective grazing and some heather burning which ensures a range of heather for grouse.
There are several waymarked paths in the Reserve and we take the one along the western edge which gradually climbs up towards Tow Law joining the road at Brick Flats after a distance of over two miles . We now go into Tow Law. This small town was virtually non existent in 1841 when there was only one building but by 1853 there were 2000 inhabitants and this reached its peak in 1881 when the population exceeded 5000. This was almost entirely due to the efforts of Charles Atwood, the Weardale ironmaster. At its peak Tow Law had five blast furnaces, two coking plants and a foundry which made the cannonballs for the Crimean war hence the name of Inkerman for part of the town where the beehive coke ovens are found. We turn right up the main road towards the west although a trip to the south of this street passing the football ground and the back of the cemetery gives lovely views across the Wear Valley over Hamsterley Forest and the Durham moors.
The quality of the coal in the north-east varied according to area with the Northumberland section producing good steaming coal and West Durham producing coking coal . This is the reason why coke ovens, both large and small, were found in County Durham. Also found at Tow Law was Ganister, which is a fine grained sandstone, and has furnished refactory material for foundry linings.
We take the road to Inkerman Farm, passing the derelict beehive ovens (GR NZ113399) and walk along the road. The land on your right was used for the burial of thousands of animals in the disastrous foot and mouth epidemic at the start of the 2000s. The access track is taken to the left to West Carr and West Shields which was formerly West Broomshields and we then proceed across fields to Broomshiels Hall (note the change in spelling). Broomshiels was shown on the Hatfields Survey of 1375 when it was a separate township divided into parcels which were later absorbed into neighbouring townships. This is a Grade 2 Listed Building and was owned by the Greenwell family for over 400 years. In the grounds is a Roman altar taken from Iveston and in more recent times the hall was the home in the 1950s and 1960s of the Bartrams, who owned the shipyard at Sunderland.
Satley
After East Broomshiels we turn left into Satley which is an old settlement from Anglo Saxon times (11th to 12th century). There is evidence that the settlement went back much earlier, as arrowheads etc. have been found although strangely there are no signs of Roman settlement even though Lanchester fort was close by. The church is Victorian, dating back to when Satley became separate from Lanchester and medieval stone in the west wall of the church suggests that there was probaly a chapel here before that.
We take the clear track to the right after the pub which heads east and later north following the Pan Burn which is crossed by a footbridge. The footpath then enters a wood before ascending across a field and continuing climbing alongside a field boundary to reach the road just outside Cornsay.
Teesdale Way – Whorlton to Winston
Filed under: Teesdale WayDistance: 12 miles
Start: Whorlton, County Durham (GR NZ 106148)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer 302 – Northallerton and Thirsk: Catterick and Bedale
This circular walk takes in the section of the Teesdale Way from Whorlton to Winston before returning through pleasant countryside and joining other sections of the walk done in the past. The Teesdale Way Guide by Martin Collins was originally published by Cicerone Press in 1995 and has recently been updated. It is a fine and varied walk and follows the Tees to its mouth. It starts just above High Cup Nick and follows the Pennine Way down the Maize Beck to Cauldron Snout and continues to use the Pennine Way as far downstream as Middleton in Teesdale. It does not follow the Tees from its source on Cross Fell, as the route was devised before the implementation of the Countryside and Rights of Way Act (CROW Act) and the course of the Tees at the source was not on a right of way. This section is in the heart of an outstanding Nature Reserve and the original route has quite rightly in my view been retained. The only problem with the first stage is that it is necessary to start at Dufton or, if being done in a day, take the long route back along the Eden Valley by car to Dufton.
Whorlton was originally Queornington in 1050. It means ‘the farmstead by the mill stream’ which is presumably Whorlton Beck. The village has an attractive green and a Victorian Gothic style church built in 1853 called St Marys. This is a common name for churches hereabouts and is passed on the Five Churches Walk. The church was built on the site of a medieval Norman chapel which was demolished to enable the church to be built.
Whorlton Suspension Bridge
There are two ways to leave Whorlton and if the Teesdale Way is to be followed it is necessary to take the footpath from the church down to the Tees where you head upriver to have a look at Whorlton Bridge. This fine suspension brige was designed by John Green of Newcastle who also designed many other bridges in the area. It is Britain’s oldest suspension bridge which still has the original suspension chains in use. The maximum weight allowed is 3 tons and at the toll house can be sen the tariffs for the use of the bridge. You now proceed back down the river whence you came, noting the slabs which form the river bed here. The other route out the village is the north of the village on the path eastwards to Low Barn which continues on to join the Teesdale Way just south of Osmond Croft .
Continuing downriver on the Teesdale Way you cross Whorlton Beck and head up this for a short distance, leaving the river, and from here onwards the route stays above the river as the banks here are very steep and prone to landslides. Across the Tees on the south side is the village of Wycliffe which was the birthplace of John Wycliffe (1320 -1384) who is famous for translating the Bible into English. Perhaps less well known is the fact that he actively supported the religious causes of the English poor in defiance of the established churches wealth and power and was accused of heresy. After his death the movement became more powerful and this eventually led to the Reformation. Near here was a ford and a ferry long disused because of the dangerous conditions.
You pass Grafts Farm and at Osmonds Croft the two routes join . The Teesdale Way continues on a clear path with fine views across towards Ovington to arrive at Winston Bridge. This excellent bridge was built circa 1860 and its 30 metre span was , at the time, one of the largest in Europe. When checked recently it was still in an excellent state of repair and required only limited maintenance. Prior to the building of the bridge the river was crossed at Hedgeholme Ford. Some time ago there was a TV dramatisation of Derek Robinsons novel “A Piece of Cake” which was the story of a hurricane squadron in WW2. For a scene ,which was supposed to be in France, a spitfire flew under the bridge. The plane in the action had been built in 1943 and this plane was purchased by Ray Hanna in 1983. He was a pilot and spitfire enthusiast and flew the spitfire under the bridge at the age of 60!
Winston Bridge
We continue downriver for a short distance and then leave the Teesdale Way and climb up to St Andrew’s Church. This 13th Century church has a remodelled nave by the famous John Dobson who was the architect of much of Newcastle in the 1850s and made it the fine city it is now. You now go through Winston Village and take the footpath north-west to Little Newsham. There was a drift mine near here which employed 70 people and along with Dun House Quarry, which supplied the stone for Bowes Museum, were the only signs of industry near here. Here you can go north to Cleatlam (formerly Cleat-leah, meaning the clearing where the burdock grows). A 4th century coin was found near here recently! You then go south by a footpath to Morey. If you are running behind time you can go direct to Morey from Little Newsham. The route then passes Wether Hill Farm and Low Barford and south of Humbleton Hill, to arrive at Humbleton Farm. This site is currently not lived in (2011) but is an attractive house which surely will be brought back to life again at some time in the future. Humbleton Hill has been settled since ancient times and three neolithic arrowheads have been found here.
It is now time to return to the River Tees and you head south passing close to Sledwich Hall which is praised by Pevsner. It was built in the 13th century and over the years has seen several modifications. In WW2 this area had several P.O.W. sites which can still be traced , in places, on the ground. At Sledwich Hall take the road towards Whorlton but resist the temptation to stay on the road and take the footpath at spot height 139 south to the river and the path back to the start.