A Book Review: “Bridges of the River Wear” by Keith Cockerill
Filed under: OtherThis excellent book ‘does what it says on the tin’ and gives a very full account of all the bridges on the River Wear. The writer comes from a long background of shipping on the Wear and gives a full account of his family history in the foreword, telling how and why he became interested in the river. One of his decisions was to photograph every bridge on the Wear which he subsequently completed and in August 2004 he stood at the Win Pool at Wearhead to witness the rise of the River Wear. Here he contemplated the second phase of his project which was to research the history of each bridge that he had photographed. The book is the outcome of both ventures and what a fine job he has done. Obviously he would have needed some assistance with the history of the bridges and it good to see our own Bryan Chambers (a Friend of Killhope), amongst the acknowledgements.
The book opens with a short chapter on the Bridges of the Wear, going back to Roman times, and putting forward Raymond Selkirk’s theories on how the Romans modified the river to make it navigable, possibly to Binchester and the location of probable Roman bridges. He then develops the theme of how the bridge and construction techniques changed up to the present day. Did you know that when the great cast iron bridge over the Wear gorge was opened in 1796, it was the largest cast iron span in the world? In its day it was as significant as the now famous Millau bridge in France which has very recently been overtaken for size in Mexico.
The book then works its way downriver from Wearhead to the mouth. The historical data of each bridge is succinct, giving the right amount of detail and there are photographs and information on bridges which have been replaced, such as the one at Page Bank. Those of you who know me know that I am a pack horse bridge enthusiast, partly because of the locations of many of them and their use and benefit in a bygone age. I feel however that bridges in general are taken very much for granted by many who use them who have little appreciation of the skills that went into their construction.
Everyone who loves exploring the banks of the River Wear and Weardale should own this book and I can guarantee that it will make their days out more enjoyable as well as giving them more detail of the local history of the area and its industries. I very much believe that Weardale is a much neglected and underrated dale of Northern England and should be better known. It is a joy to walk alongside with abundant wildlife and superb scenery from source to mouth. There is a pleasant route from Weardale, or even better, from Killhope Wheel to the mouth at Roker and neither the Tyne nor the Tees, which are both equally superb for most of their course, cannot equal the Wear in the last section following the development of the riverside at Sunderland. A new or updated edition of the Weardale Way would be much appreciated.
The book is produced by The Peoples History Limited, ISBN 1 902527 34 8 and at £12.99 is well worth the expenditure!
Postscript: I recently received a message from Keith and he believes the publisher may no longer be operating. The book may still be available in local bookshops or you may also be able to purchase it on Amazon if any copies are currently available. Alternatively, you can buy it directly from Keith Cockerill for £10.00 including post & packing – for further information please send him an email to keith.cockerill@btinternet.com
Allendale Town to Hexham and The Reivers Way
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Start: Allendale Market Place (GR NZ 839558)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Allendale is a very attractive large village in the East Allen valley. In former times it was much more important as the centre of the local lead mining activity which is still evident when you explore the area. Of particular interest are the two chimneys and the flue passed on the walk Two Chimneys and a Bastle. For much of the last century following the demise of the lead industry it became a quality outdoor holiday area as the many hotels testified. Sadly some of these have closed and changed into housing, but the town has much charm with its square and attractive buildings.
This walk can be done in either direction but starting at Allendale gives you height advantage. Obviously it is necessary to either have two cars or use the public transport (which is a minibus service) between the towns. Before starting have a look at the church of St Cuthbert built in 1807 and go behind the church to look down on the river below.
Follow the road towards Hexham and after crossing the Philip Burn where the road turns sharp left take the minor road on your right called Leadside Bank which climbs steadily uphill. After passing Moorhouse Gate continue straight ahead leaving the tarmac to continue climbing steadily northwards. At spot height 333 on GR850581 the map shows a bridleway heading north-east. This is not clear on the ground and we prefer to continue going north on a track which eventually arrives at a grouse shooters track at GR851589. Here turn right but note the excellent views ahead to the Cheviots and Wark Forest.
Coldcoats Rigg and Fell Plantation
Follow this track to the east towards Coldcoats Rigg and Fell Plantation. On a recent mid February walk it was amazing to note so much birdlife of curlews, peewits (lapwings), golden plovers and snipe which had all arrived early. As this area borders softer terrain the birds could easily retreat to a kinder location should the weather deteriorate. Continue past Coldcoats Rigg heading a shade north of east to cross Anchey Sike by a footbridge and climb slightly up to a corner of two walls at GR880597. Here head nearly north to West Greenridge Farm, with the wall on your right. The great views north persist and below you can be seen vehicles on the Hexham to Allendale road.
Continue north on the farm access road to just short of the B6305 and take the track into West Dipton Wood (Deepdene Wood). This is a beautiful wood which as the old name implies is deep and wooded and on recent visits we have seen little owls here. There is a footpath along the bottom of the wood next to the burn but personally l cannot recommend this. It is difficult to walk, especially after heavy rain, and the area should be respected as a reserve for wildlife. The footpath along the northern edge is good and continues for about 2 miles. The OS map shows a Queens Cave below near the burn altough there is a report that the OS have made an error on the exact location of the cave.
West Dipton Wood
Legend has it that following a battle near Hexham in 1464 in the Wars of the Roses, where a poor force of Lancastrians were routed, King Henry of the Lancastrians escaped but was subsequently captured at Clitheroe. Queen Margaret escaped on horseback with her son and fell upon a band of robbers near West Dipton Burn. She pleaded with the robbers for protection which they gave and hid them in a cave until they could be moved. The “Hexham Robber” story appears to have some authenticity from information recorded at the time. The actual site of the battle was in fields to the north-east of Linnels Bridge and was in fact the last battle in the Wars of the Roses.
After a shade over two miles the track descends to the burn which is followed down to the road at Dipton Mill. Here is a fine pub (eponymously named The Dipton Mill) with its own brewery and a stop here is more than justified. It was used in “The Likely Lads” (a popular TV program in the late 1960s with James Bolam and Rodney Bewes) where Bob’s father-in-law went for an illicit weekend and they happened to visit when he was there. The beer, an interesting range of real ales, is found in many free outlets in the north-east.
Dipton Mill Pub
The route continues on the north bank of the burn to Hole House where you then go north passing to the right of the house, initially through a wood and then along the side to near Queens Letch. Here you go right through a gate near to a derelict brick building and continue north on the other side of the boundary. Queens Letch is thought to be where Queen Margaret was found by the robbers. Continue north to the next gate. On your right is a beautifully situated memorial seat placed there by the Hexham Branch of the Ramblers Association in memory of Jim Hobbes, a much respected member. The view to the south over Hexhamshire is beautiful and the Ramblers Association are to be congratulated on finding such a fine spot.
There are fine views back to the north now and it is a steep drop through pasture and scattered gorse down to the road near High Shield, where you turn left uphill for just less than half a mile to a lane on the right where there are a row of detached houses. The section of this walk from Hole House to High Shield is now part of a new long distance path promoted by the Wainwright Society called “A Pennine Journey” which broadly follows the route taken in 1939 by Wainwright on his first trip to Hadrians Wall. His book, which was written in 1939, remained in his desk unpublished until 1986. It is a very interesting book which was written when the negotiations were proceeding with Hitler and is not only a log of his route but is of significant interest in capturing the period. Much of his walk was on roads, many of which were unsurfaced with tarmac and the new route has endeavoured to follow the route on paths.
At High Shield the Wainwright route goes downhill to Hexham on the road and l believe that this is much inferior to the route taken on this walk past Wydon Reservoir. The lane leads down to Wydon Reservoir which is followed down its far bank. At the end of the reservoir continue down and descend to the overflow stream. This is a lovely path alongside it through mature woodland. At the end take the path to the right into some typical Hexham stone houses. Here you are looking down to the Abbey from where you can then go to the bus station on the main street. If you have left a car at the river car park (near to the bridge) exit the park in front of the abbey in the north-west corner near to the childrens play area and follow this to cross the Wydon Burn which you had left earlier. Here the burn is paved and serves as a road as well. This area was the industrial area of Hexham in earlier times when the town was famous for glove manufacturing. Continue following the burn past the bus depot in pleasant surroundings to cross the Newcastle to Carlisle railway and arrive at the riverside near the golf course. This is a lovely area called Tyne Green and the river is a good area for birds. Look out for gooseanders here. It is now just a short stroll downriver to the car park near to the mart.
The Reivers Way
There is another fine walk from Corbridge to Allendale which uses completely different paths and covers a distance of 17 miles. This is a popular route and is the first stage of a fine walk called “The Reivers Way” which covers much of Northumberland which is without a doubt one of England’s finest counties. The route, which is 150 miles long, was written by Harry Wade in 1977. We walked it in the early 1980s when the state of the paths was not as good as it is now and it was not then all on rights of way. These sections are now on Open Access. The route is basically Corbridge, Allendale, Bardon Mill in the Tyne valley, Wark, Elsdon, Rothbury, through the Cheviots to Wooler, Belford, Bamburgh and down the coast to finish at Alnmouth. Some sections are walked regularly by local walkers whilst others demonstrate the great sense of space which can be found here. It is a great walk and really recommended for walkers elsewhere in the UK to experience the fine countryside with its mix of moors, Simonside and Cheviot Hills and the coast of the Northumberland National Park. It will not feature on any walks on this site as a good guide book by James Roberts published in 1993 by Cicerone should be available. Put this down as a walk to do possibly in a small group as accommodation in some of the quieter areas is not plentiful and needs to be worked out. You will not regret it!
Hamsterley and Hamsterley Forest
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Start: Hamsterley Village
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer 305 – Bishop Auckland and OS Explorer 31 – Teesdale and Weardale
Strangers to County Durham may not be aware that there are two villages called Hamsterley. One is in the Derwent Valley, south-west of Gateshead, in a good walking area surrounded by woodland and the other (which is this walk) is in mid Weardale on a shelf above the river. The main street in Hamsterley is over half a mile long so there are plenty of places to park cars.
East Green in Hamsterley Village
We leave the village towards its eastern end and head downhill on the minor road heading south called Daniel Lane for a short distance to the junction of the two routes from the main road. There is a footpath sign (set back on your left) and this route is taken, passing in front of Hollin Hill which shows signs of being a fair age and then continue east crossing a series of narrow fields. After three such crossings is an old well off-route called Lady Well which is now in disrepair. The path continues east to arrive at a church and the village graveyard, which is entered. The route continues leaving the graveyard at the south-east corner and crosses a large field, gradually descending down to a wood and a stile onto the road. Here the road is taken, continuing downhill for 200 yards to a minor crossroads where we turn left to Lane House. The good track you are on serves as an access road to the next farm called Edge Knoll, which you pass on your right and then continue on to Park House. The path is well marked as you turn right here on a pretty path through woodland to descend to the Bedburn Beck.
This area is very attractive with many fine trees and a lot of birdlife. Note that you do not cross the beck but walk on the right bank to then pick up the original track you were on. This diversion looks like a measure to prevent access for unwanted wheeled vehicles but in any case the route taken is much superior. You then walk alongside a wood with Bedburn Beck flowing just behind the wood to a corner. Do not take the footpath on your right. Instead, turn left for a short distance up the side of the field to cross a small stream by a bridge onto a lane next to Snape Gate. There can be some difficulty in finding the route here but everything is marked up, including places which are not rights of way. Pass in front of the house and round to the left. Do not go down towards the Bedburn Beck. The footpath to Howlea Bridge which we want is along the south side of two fields. Alternatively l doubt if there would be any objection to using the access road which joins the Wolsingham road where you can then turn right and walk downhill to the bridge. Turn left into the Caravan Park before the bridge and continue westwards to the end of the site, which is left on a clear track to Bedburn Old Hall. Here, you pass through the stables area and come to another Wolsingham road and a small car park situated to the north of the bridge. You now turn left here heading west to pass by a house and follow the Bedburn Beck upstream. This river has both kingfishers and dippers and both are seen regularly. The building above you is Bedburn Hall.
Bedburn Beck near Low Redford Wood
After about half a mile the track crosses a small bridge into a meadow and heads for a building which is part of the Bedburn Forest set up. You are now at one of the main car parks for Bedburn Forest which is much used for outdoor activities, notably mountain biking and indeed national events are held here. Our next destination is The Grove, which is another car park, and you follow the red or blue routes on good tracks through the woods which are quite open keeping to the south of the beck. There are good views of the beck underneath you and the footpath then descends to run alongside the beck to reach the road through the forest owned by the Forestry Commission. This is a toll road for visitors. Head west upstream to The Grove and continue past it for a short distance on the tarmac to a road bridge over Bedburn Beck, which is crossed for a steep climb up for about 100 yards, where the permissive track up Mayland Bank is taken on your right. This cuts across the gradient and is much used by cyclists.
At a crossing of paths, where there is a small kiosk, continue straight ahead to eventually reach the road which runs along the southern edge of Bedburn Forest. Cross the road and take the footpath to Mayland Lea just to the right. Pass to the front of the farm and head over the fields and past the northern edge of Linburn Wood to a minor road. Turn right for a short distance and then continue east past West Mayland and then Mayland Hall. This is all sheep country and this farm won the prize for the best fleece at the 2011 Yorkshire Show. The route continues east to East Mayland where it is necessary to turn into the farmyard to pick up the footpath. The one straight ahead at the farm entrance is the wrong one, heading south at the end of the field ahead. All of this land has been subject to open cast work hence the excellent walls passed on the way to Rackwood Hill and it now appears that the footpath on line 30 is on the south side of the fence and not on the north side. Both of the Rackwood farms are bypassed to the north on clearly marked routes which keep you out of the farmyard. Emerging onto the road from the latter, ignore the main road back into Hamsterley and take the minor road south. After two fields on your left cross the waymarked stile and head north-east over grass fields, where all the stiles have recently been renewed. Take care not to go to Numbers Farm and continue east and drop down at the end of the fields over a high stone stile to a spring and overgrown area which is exited by a tall stile to arrive back in Hamsterley.
As stated at the start of this walk, Hamsterley is a long village which appears to still maintain the things valued in a village such as a pub, village hall and more than one church, plus a large village green. Long may it remain the same! The excellent condition of the gates and the stiles as well as the waymarking is due to the combined efforts of the Parish Council and the Rights of Way team at Durham County Council under the Parish Paths Partnership. What a good scheme this is not only for visitors but also for the locals.
Castle Eden, Hesleden and Hurworth Burn Reservoir
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Start: Masonic Hall car park off B1281, Castle Eden (GR NZ 423376)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer Map 306 – Middlesbrough and Hartlepool, Stockton-on-Tees and Redcar
It is not an easy job to put together a 12 mile walk starting at Castle Eden and visiting these two areas, which are on opposite sides of the busy and dangerous to cross A19. The routes suggested here manage this but in order to eliminate road walking use is made of the two railway walks in the area. We start the walk at the car park opposite Castle Eden Inn which is situated on the old A19. The car park is shared with the local Masonic Lodge. Castle Eden is a spread out place and on this walk we see very little of it especially when compared to the Castle Eden Dene Walk. It was well known for its brewery, known as Nimmos, which in latter days was acquired by Whitbreads. The village was originally known as South Yoden which is a corruption of Yew dene for which Castle Eden Dene is famous. There was coal mining here in the 1800s as well as a ropeworks and a bleachery, the site of which is passed on this walk.
We head south from the inn on the main road for a distance of about 200 yards to a lane on the left which leads towards the bleachery. At the end of the second field the track is crossed by a footpath and we follow the path to the right down the side of a field. After a short distance we drop down into the upper part of Hesleden Dene and the burn is crossed by a good bridge. Hesleden Dene is the most southerly of the three well known Durham ravine denes, the others being Hawthorn and the nationally famous Castle Eden Dene with its medieval woodland. It is a steep climb for a short distance up the other side to reach the southern edge of the dene. Here we take a footpath heading north-east alongside the field edge above the dene. The building you see down in the dene after about 300 yards is the bleachery. After about half a mile the path drops slightly and then turns back uphill slightly on a 90 degree turn. In about 100 yards there is a stile on the left and this is taken descending down into Hesleden Dene and the burn is again crossed by a good bridge.
This area is a Nature Reserve owned by the Durham Wildlife Trust. Hesleden is a corruption of Hazel Dene but the dene is also notable for yew trees as well as the rarer Spindle tree and lots of harts tongue ferns which thrive in damp secluded places. They are found regularly in crevices on limestone pavements. There is good birdlife here with many species, including great spotted woodpeckers, tawny owl and buzzards. The path now follows the burn downstream before climbing steeply out of the dene by a good set of stairs. At the top you arrive on the Hart to Haswell Railway Path.
This railway was stated as early as 1835 by the Hartlepool Dock and Railway Company. The purpose was to get into the Durham coalfield and thereby get coal sent to Hartlepool to be shipped out. It reached Castle Eden in 1839 and eventually reached Haswell in the 1860s. At the same time George Stephenson was building a line from Sunderland (now the Stephenson Trail from Hetton on the Hill to Sunderland) which also reached Haswell but the two stations were at right angles in Haswell and at different levels. The Hartlepool line plans to reach Moorsley were abandoned after the Sunderland company opened a branch line from Murton to Durham and eventually all the lines were linked up with a new station in Haswell in 1877. As a matter of interest Haswell was the first pit in the world to have a steel cable down its mine shaft and this was very significant in the history of mining. Services on the Hart line continued until June 1952 and the line was used for main line services when maintenance was needed on the London to Newcastle line as the photograph of the Flying Scotsman on the interpretation boards show.
It is a straightforward walk up the line passing through Castle Eden Station and then under the A19. At Heads Hope where the line starts to curve northwards is a farm on your left and just short of the farm is a waymarked stile leading into a paddock. A further stile goes into a field which is crossed slightly uphill to reach another stile leading down into Heads Hope Dene, which has been made by the same burn as Hesleden. This is crossed by a bridge and the dene exited by a stile. Here we have two alternative routes; the first goes directly south over two fields to join a track leading to Hutton Henry which is an old village whose name is Scandinavian for Hutton meaning high farm and Henry being the Lord of the Manor Hendry de Eshe in the 14th Century. It boasts a pub called The Plough and the village has a pleasant feel about it. The alternative route goes west along the edge of the dene before heading south-west over a footbridge to the south-west corner where a track is joined which heads west and then south round a lake to a farm and near to a row of cottages called Heath Row. This area was the location for Hutton Henry Pit. The old shaft is marked up in a nearby field as a plinth and some of the old pit buildings have been incorporated into the farm. A byway then leads south to Rodridge Farm and here the road is crossed to pick up a waymarked footpath down the side of a field with the hedge on your right. At the end of the field it passes over into a narrrow strip of open access land as this is the West Common of Hutton Henry. You leave the common almost immediately and follow a field edge with the hedge on your left, cross a stile and head diagonally to the south-west corner. We actually followed the field edge to the right to arrive on the B1280 at spot height 139. As this is a common l believe it is possible to get from Hutton Henry to join up with the other path.
Village Green at Hutton Henry
There are two routes south from Hutton Henry both starting at the telephone box. One passes Leechmire and is a farm access road but note the fine line of trees. The other turns right just after leaving the village street along Leechmire Terrace to Green Lane. At GR 421352 there is a junction of tracks and the one on the right is taken and, after crossing a footbridge over a burn, the hedge is followed to the B1280. Also the footpath on the right over the field to South Wingate may be preferred as it keeps you off the B1280. There is little to choose between the routes unless you are walking at the weekend and wish to visit The Plough pub but personally l prefer the first route ending at spot height 139. Effectively all the routes are together here.
Hurworth Burn Reservoir
Again there are two routes from the B1280 to Hurworth Burn Reservoir. The easy one goes from the white cottage a short distance west towards Station Town and heads down a broad track between the fields to Black Hurworth Farm. The other goes from South Wingate past Catlow Hall which has B&B facilities. The section of the footpath over the stile to the farm is not passable easily and it is best to follow the access road to the end of the second field about 100 yards short of the hall and turn right to a small lake and then left to arrive just to the west of the hall. Cross the stile in front of you and head south through a small garden area to a further stile. Now head down the field edge to cross the Mousey Burn by a footbridge and once over the bridge head west over the hill to Black Hurworth Farm. Before the farm gates take the stile on the right alongside the farm fence which leads to the farmyard. This can be a bit muddy. Here go west for a short distance through a paddock and over a stile on to the Castle Eden Walkway and Hurworth Burn Reservoir. Personally, I prefer the latter route via Catlow which is prettier and both Catlow Hall and Black Hurworth Farm have some antiquity about them.
After the death of Thomas Hurworth in 1468, Hurworth on the Moor was divided into three parts with the heirs drawing lots from a bag containing coloured items of black, red and white. Hence the name of the farms even today.
Hurworth Burn was dammed in the 1870s to provide water for Hartlepool and it always surprises me that such a limited inflow can sustain such a body of water. It is a superb place for birdlife with a wide variety of ducks and geese as well as other waterbirds. The Teesmouth Bird Club run a top class website giving great details of the sightings and what is about. In order to get the best views walk south down the line past the old Hurworth Burn station platform where there is normally a lot of finches and tits feeding on the nuts provided. Continue down to the road reached down the embankment about 100 yards south of the bridge over the road and take care on this road for about 200 yards to reach the far side of the reservoir. The stream issuing from the reservoir is the River Skerne which passes close to Aycliffe and through Darlington reaching the Tees at Hurworth Place on the Teesdale Way. In the past it was considered a good fishing river hence the name Fishburn through which it passes. The path around is easy to follow and after crossing the bridge over part of the reservoir you eventually come back to the railway line near to Black Hurworth Farm.
Hurworth Station
The railway you are walking is the trackbed of the NER branch from Bowesfield Junction at Stockton to Wellfield at Wingate where it joined the Hart Line and this was built as late as 1880. It was known as the Cuckoo Line and was officially the Stockton to Castle Eden line although it did not serve that village. Its aim was to bypass Hartlepool and Stockton and link the Hartlepool to Sunderland and the Darlington to Middlesbrough lines. Its main structure was the 22 arch Thorpe Thewles viaduct which used 8 million bricks in its construction. The principal products carried were weardale limestone, durham coal and agricultural products and due to the low populations on its route passenger traffic was minimal. Although it initially had some important through trains to Manchester and Bournemouth to ease congestion on other routes it was downgraded in 1905 when the coastal route between Hartlepool and Sunderland was opened and it closed to passengers in 1931 and finally closed in 1966.
It is easy walking heading back slightly uphill to Station Towm which has little to commend it. Fortunately the route slides by the side and is waymarked as a National Cycle Route. At Station Town the main line was further to the east and the route is now alongside a council estate for a short distance (on what was a link with a railway to the Trimdons) before entering some restored land with a young wood. It then goes downhill on a good surface, which you would expect on a National Cycle Trail, and turns uphill heading north-east after crossing a small stream which eventually becomes the burn down Hesleden. At the bend where the track turns north you are back on the main railway track. The house on the knoll to the north is Beech House. There are several lakes hereabouts which were formed from exhausted clay pits used for tiles as the nearby farm indicates. At a point where the pylons come near to the track, take the path on the right which goes down the side of a field with several ancient beech trees to join the Hart Railway just west of Hopes Head farm where you left the track earlier. It is a repeat walk back under the A19 and when you arrive at the road bridge carrying the old A19 (now the B1281) take the steps on the right back to the car park.
Postscript
If an extra few 5 miles are desired from Hutton Henry, take the Leechmere route and then the B1280 to Red Barns, then follow the footpath to Ropers Wood and the Coal Lane past Pudding Poke Farm to Pawton Hill Farm. Here turn right through Scotland Wood and then Cole Hill Farm and East Murton Farm to pick up the Cuckoo Line at 408314. This is in Hartlepool where the standards of footpath maintenance are generally poor and there are some indifferent stiles but there are good views of the Cleveland hills and the countryside is pleasant. Cross over the track, climb some stairs and head south-west to GR 405311 (or walk down the track to pick up the bridleway from Embleton) and then head north parallel to the railway past Murton Blue House to arrive at Hurworth Reservoir and back on to the original route. Alternatively you can omit the Hesleden section of the walk to give a walk about 13 miles and incorporate the Hesleden section with a combined walk down to the coast at Crimdon. See also the Castle Eden Dene Walk which appears elsewhere on this site.
Some of the information on this walk has been taken from “Lost Railways of Durham and Teeside” by Robin Jones published by Countryside Books in the Lost Railway series. Its sister book on Northumberland is equally good and both are highly recommended. Also used was a leaflet produced by the District of Easington, now incorporated into Durham County Council.
Rainton Meadows to Pittington
Filed under: OtherDistance: 11 miles
Start: Rainton Meadows Visitor Centre. Take note that the car park closes at 4:30pm but you can park outside the reserve on the approach road.
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer 308 – Durham and Sunderland
About the Durham Wildlife Trust
This walk was one that l organised for the Ramblers Association and this has now been modified to accommodate a Guided Walk for Durham County Council. The objective of the walk was to introduce walkers to the Durham Wildlife Trust and the work that they carry out, including a visit to one of their Visitor Centres as well as look at other reserves and places of interest in the Pittington area which are totally different to the image that the place name conjures up.
Durham Wildlife Trust has its HQ at Rainton Meadows from where they manage 25 or more Nature Reserves and four Visitor Centres as well as being very active in an environmental education programme which encompasses schools and communities. The Rainton Meadows site has been developed over the last 15 years although the DWT have been involved with the site since the early 1960s with Joe’s Pond which is a SSSI. The pond has six species of dragonfly as well as many toads and water voles. The site is man-made having been developed on old colliery workings and spoil heaps. There are four lakes which are interconnected and the site is approximately 50 hectares with areas of woodland and semi-improved grassland. The latter is currently being grazed by a small herd of highland cattle which are fairly non-selective grazers. The grassland is important for waders such as lapwings and oystercatchers. Six species of owl have been seen on the site and a wealth of other species. The site supports several animals including hares and has an interesting and varied flora. Full details of this can be found on their website. On a visit in mid December 2010 there was a bittern on the site which had been there for a few weeks and both mealy and common redpolls which were probably over from Scandinavia.
The DWT operates basically on the old boundaries of County Durham which incorporates the current County Durham, Gateshead MBC, South Tyneside MBC and Sunderland MBC. The sites managed read like a list of places visited on many of the Durham County Council guided walks. The list is as follows, going roughly from north to south:
Shibdon Pond at Blaydon
High Wood near to Derwentcote
Burnhope Pond
Rabbitbank Wood near Knitsley
Malton on the River Browney
Edmundsley Wood
Hawthorn Dene
Brasside Pond
Ragpath Heath near to Esh Winning
Hedleyhope Fell near Tow Law
Baal Hill north of Wolsingahm
Low Barns at Witton le Wear
Rosa Shafto and Tudhoe Mill
Bishop Middleham Quarry
Raisby Hill Grassland
Trimdon Grange Quarry
Town Kelloe Bank near Trimdon
Blackhall Rocks
Hesleden Dene
Hannah’s Meadow
Redcar Field near Coatham Mundeville.
Recently the DWT have also acquired Milkwellburn Wood near to Chopwell in a very attractive part of the Derwent Valley.
Rainton Meadows Nature Reserve
The Walk
The walk starts by going past Joe’s Pond and at the first junction to the south of the pond head east along a waymarked path called the Coalfield Way which arrives at the A1052 close to the A690 flyover. The Coalfield Way is a 9 mile circular walk linking Joe’s Pond, Hetton Bogs, Hetton Lyons Country Park, The Stephenson Way, Hetton le Hill, High Moorsley and Rainton Meadows with some good views and plenty of both flora and fauna interest. Go under the flyover and take the second left called North Road towards Hetton le Hole. Shortly after the end of a row of houses take the waymarked path on your left over Hainton Burn (spelling mistake on my map) to enter Hetton Bogs Nature Reserve still on the Coalfield Way. This is an extraordinary place being so close to habitations as you are totally unaware of their relative proximity. The site has wet meadows, woods dating back to the 1500s, water meadows and ponds. The latter has breeding water voles and link up with the water voles present at Rainton Meadows. There are various paths to walk on but we follow the burn which changes name correctly to Hetton Burn.
Eventually you walk into Hetton Park which was established getting on for 100 years ago in 1926 under the Miners Welfare Scheme. Its upkeep was originally funded by a levy of those working at nearby Eppleton Quarry. The place is still natural and you then come to the end of the park at a culvert where you exit to Hetton Sports Complex. Head left along Welfare Park Road to the main road, which is crossed, noting the library in a converted Victorian school which boasts a blue plaque. Here turn left down Caroline Street for a very short distance to the site of The Caroline pub which is now occupied by a butchers and deli business.
Here go right and after passing an old church and a pub turn left down Richard Street to a row of houses, noting the old cinema on your right. Walk in front of the terrace along an unmade road and at the end of the terrace head east down a waymarked path to Hetton Lyons Country Park on the site of Hetton Lyons Colliery. This colliery operated for about 130 years and produced 300,000 tons of coal annually before closing in 1950. The techniques of deep coal mining were pioneered here. This again is a new site and like many others in County Durham illustrates beautifully the great strides made in the area to change its image and develop a place of recreation and more importantly an area where nature can thrive. Walking clockwise round the lake you will observe the abundant birdlife and this year the resident mute swans reared seven cygnets. The picnic tables make a good spot for a stop.
Hetton Lyons Country Park
At the south of the lake there is a smaller reed fringed lake and the path here goes uphill to the right of the lake where it arrives at a junction of paths. One of these is the old railway line from Shincliffe to Murton and this is followed west passing factories on your left to arrive at an open area. Follow the waymarks back to Station Road. Head south for a short distance on the opposite side of Station Road and take the waymarked path on your right back to the railway path which is here in a cutting. The station has long since disappeared and part of the route sold hence the deviation. Walk down here and cross the main road near to the Fox and Hounds pub where the way ahead is plain to see to the left of the pub. This is a good quality recreational path which goes all the way to Sherburn and features on other walks. The areas near to this path have been extensively planted with birch and other trees and are a good place to see small birdlife.
After passing a footpath on your left going to Low Moorsley at the edge of a wood, you come to a major crossing of bridleways at the end of this same wood a short distance further on. The route on the right comes from Rainton Bridge on the route of another old colliery line. Here turn left on the bridleway, leaving the line going to Sherburn and follow the bridleway through bends and pass below some allotments. At the end of these cross the stile and shortly after at the junction of four paths, take the one going diagonally uphill to High Moorsley. The next stage is across the road on a broad track towards a mast, a trig point and what looks like a giant golf ball on top of the mast. This is a weather radar station which is used in weather forecasting. More details on this can be found on the web but this is the only one in the north-east of England!
The location gives good views north to the Simonside Hills above Rothbury and pleasant views southwards over Cassop Vale and Elemore Woods. The path goes round the edge of several fields before coming to a t-junction near Cobblers Hill. Cross the stile in front and head right slowly uphill along several field boundaries and after about a mile you come to a sharp drop leading down to Low Pittington.
Here the walk can be shortened by taking the stile on your right and following the path along the contours passing the site of Moorsley Quarry where part of the old quarry face survives to the road. This is crossed immediately and take a path heading north-west steeply downhill towards Field House Farm. The footpath actually goes between this farm and Greengables on your right after crossing the Shincliffe to Murton old line. Take care on leaving the line in case the two stepping stones are slippy. You then cross over Robin Lane to reach the A690.
To visit Pittington Church, instead of taking the path detailed above to Moorsley Quarry, ignore the footpath down to Low Pittington and head quite steeply uphill to spot height 157 and follow the path down the left-hand side of the wood which is quite steep. Cross over the road at the bottom and down through a wood crossing Coalford Beck by a bridge (note the change from Burn to Beck!) and on reaching the track just up the hill ahead turn right down to Coalford Lane. This area has also seen massive restoration with a great deal of tree planting to create a rural outlook. After just a few yards to the right on Coalford Lane take the clear track down to Littletown Farm where the Coalford Beck is recrossed to arrive at Pittington Church. You will have noticed the plethora of place names relating to the coal industry but Pittington is not one of them, being a Saxon name meaning the Clan of the Pitts. It was originally called Pittingdune, the latter part of the name deriving from the old word for hill being dun. The church of St Lawrence is much praised by Pevsner who describes the north aisle as one of the most exciting places of architecture in County Durham. The church was started in 1070 (which actually makes it older than Durham Cathedral) and it is thought that many of the same stone masons were used in the construction of both places. The site of the church goes back to Saxon times with firstly a wooden church and then a stone one being on the site. This whole area was settled by Saxons as there was good grazing and good water from the many springs hereabouts. The name of Sherburn nearby is derived fron clear stream. The church has several treasures including a sundial on the south wall which is thought to have come down from Northumberland around the time of its construction and some paintings on the life of St Cuthbert. Regretably the church is kept locked and a visit has to be arranged in advance.
On reaching the Hallgarth Hotel turn right to High Pittington and just before the crossroads take the path on your left down through fields to Low Pittington, reaching the road near to the Blacksmith Arms where a further path takes you to Moorsley Road and the major railway path from Shincliffe mentioned and walked on earlier on the walk. This railway was commenced in 1836 from Sunderland to Ryhope and by 1837 had reached Sherburn. Soon after it got to Shincliffe which was Durham’s first railway station. The line was rope hauled until 1857 when locomotives were used and in 1893 a branch arrived at Durham at Elvet. The line was never used much and Elvet Station closed for general use in 1937 although it was used until 1953 for miners galas.
Railway path near High Moorsley
We now head north-east along the line before taking the path to West Rainton described earlier on the shorter walk. TAKE CARE CROSSING THE A690 AS THE TRAFFIC IS MOVING VERY FAST! After crossing the A690 take the byway opposite and pass the outstanding feature of West Rainton which is the church of St Mary. The settlement was founded by some monks who were followers of St Cuthbert. The current church was built in 1864 and the superb spire added in 1877 following a generous donation. Details of this can be read on the plaque which is engraved on stone from the Great Pyramid of Ghizeh in Egypt!
We now proceed down Marks Lane to the bend where we turn right into Rainton Meadow Reserve and follow the path back to the Visitor Centre and the start. Possibly the best way back is to ignore the first sign to the Visitor Centre, instead continuing ahead on a route marked to Joe’s Pond and take the next way back which climbs a hill past the meadows and gives a good overall view of much of the site and its lakes.