A Walk from Masham to the Druids Temple
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12.5 miles
Start: Masham
Map : OS Explorer Map 298 – Nidderdale and OS Explorer Map 302 – Northallerton & Thirsk
Click to view start position on Google Maps
There was a 50mph gale blowing and the promise of heavy showers in the North Pennines so it was an easy decision to go to more hospitable territory. But where? After a short discussion it emerged that neither Alan, Brian or Les had been to the Druids Temple near Masham so there we went parking in the square at the centre of the town. Of course we only had the Nidderdale map and the path to the temple was on the Northallerton and Thirsk map Explorer 302. This was purchased at the Tourist Office and a brief examination showed that the route to the temple was on the Ripon Rowel Walk. This is a 50 mile circular walk around Ripon and was devised by the Ripon Group of the Ramblers Association. It is specifically highlighted on the Explorer maps and we then made another decision to buy the book and do the whole walk in the winter, a nice lowland walk! The man in charge of the Tourist Information Centre promised that we would find it a better than expected walk.
The route out of Masham passes the Theakston Brewery (be careful there is also the Black Sheep Brewery) and leaves Masham at the north-west corner of the town along Westholme Road after the brewery. The book is written with the walker going in a clockwise direction so there was a little bit concentration needed as we were going anti-clockwise but in any case the waymarking is excellent and l can only assume that the Ramblers Association had an input here. You leave up a lane passing a cattle food factory and this soon changes to a footpath. You then pass to the left of some buildings and emerge on to Micklebury Lane after half a mile where you turn left (south) down to the bend where the road changes name to Havernook Lane. Here you turn west on a good bridleway over Fearby Low Moor to another road where you turn left (south) down past Swinton Saw Mill and on to Explorer 26 (298) for those with newer maps. This Nidderdale map will be used for the rest of both this walk and the Rowel Way, although the last mile into Masham is back on 302.
After crossing the beck you continue uphill on the road for a short distance to a junction where you go west and, where the road heads south, continue west passing Broadmires Farm. The route is clear past Hall Wood and at GR168794 there is a three-way signpost. You have to virtually go back on yourself and head east-south-east aiming for the stile near Broadmires Wood, which is crossed, and continuing in the same direction you reach Knowle Lane (after transferring to the other side of Knowle Plantation). Here you leave the Rowel Way for a short time and head south-west up the dead end road to the Druids Temple.
This is an early example of job creation in the early 19th Century by William Danby of Swinton Hall and is obviously based on Stonehenge although there is also a cave on the site. It was built when Swinton Hall had been completed to keep the workforce employed. After walking round the site it is back down the lane for a short distance to where you emerged onto Knowle Lane and the track taken south passing High Knowle Farm and descending to Sale Beck Plantation where you head east to a road. Here you turn right, cross the beck and head up steeply to Ilton Village, a pleasant spot and worthy of a rest.
The Druids Temple Folly
At Manor Farm you drop down the waymarked path which is wet here and cross the stile on to the grouse moors and butts heading south-east. You are on open moors here and although they are not high there are great views all the way to Tyneside, Teeside and the Cleveland Hills. After about a mile you come to a very good lane at Moscar which looks a very good way onto open moors all the way to Nidderdale. Here we leave the Rowel Way and head east down the access road to Moscar and continue straight ahead on the road past Hutts Cottages. Shortly after passing these there are two footpath signs on the left at the entrance to Nutwith Common Wood. Take the nearest to the road and on a good path walk through some excellent beech woods. This is a lovely woodland walk for two miles to the Grewelthorpe road where you will see a car park just to the left on the other side of the road. This is for visitors to Hackforth Wood which was purchased recently for a large amount of money by the Woodland Trust. There is full access (as in all Woodland Trust properties) to the full 117 acres which was bought by the Aislabie family in 1731. The same family owned Studley Royal and Fountains Abbey where they developed follies, ponds and cascades.
Eventually you arrive at the River Ure which is followed upstream through masses of Himalyan Balsam passing Nutwith Cote Farm which has bee bowls and unusual dovecotes. It is necessary to leave the Ure some distance after this and come inland to the road to cross the River Burn before returning to the Ure. It is now only a mile back to Masham alongside the river on the Rowel Way passing the sewage works and arriving back to the square. All in all this is a very varied walk and as the man said in the Tourist Information Centre surprisingly good!
The Southern Hills Above Lanchester
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12.5 miles
Start: Car park on Lanchester Valley Railway Walk, Newbiggin Lane, Lanchester
Map : OS Explorer Map 307 – Consett & Derwent Reservoir
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This walk of 12 miles complements the Northern Hills above Lanchester walk which is of a similar distance. For those who enjoy a really long walk they can be put together to give a marathon type distance such as those enjoyed by members of the Long Distance Walkers Association (LDWA). This fine organisation with an excellent newsletter have challenge walks throughout the country, including County Durham and full details of them can be found on their website. Neither of the two routes passes the Roman Fort of Longovicium as regretably there is no public footpath from Lanchester, although a footpath used on this route does pass quite close near Middlewood Farm passed towards the end of the walk.
Lanchester is an attractive village situated in the valley of the Smallhope Burn which rises in the hills to the west above Knitsley. It is not in the Browney Valley as many think but parts of this valley are explored during this walk. Lanchester has an impressive history with the Roman Fort of Longovicium only about half a mile to the south-west on the Satley road and the village is skirted by Dere Street which passed the fort before continuing on to the fort of Ebchester and beyond. Dere Street went from York to Scotland and the fort here was probably established after the Romans had retreated back to the Forth/Clyde line where they built the Antonine Wall. The Roman meaning of Lanchester means long town incidentally. For strangers to the area the village deserves some of your time to wander around with pride of place going to the Norman church of All Saints on the far side of the bypass. Nickolaus Pevsner descibes it as one of the most rewarding parish churches in the county. It was built in the 12th Century utilising the very convenient source of building stone of the nearby fort, but in addition the church chancel was rebuilt in the 13th Century and contains some excellent stone zig-zag markings which can also be observed in Durham Cathedral and other Norman buildings. The other churches, both the Methodist with its sensitive addition and the early 20th Century Roman Catholic church also add to the quality of the buidings of Lanchester, as does the branch Library which in the past has served many purposes including that of a workhouse.
Lanchester All Saints Church
We start the walk at the car park on Newbiggin Road on the site of the former Lanchester Valley Railway. The function of this line was to provide a good route for iron ore to reach the expanding steelworks of Consett, Prior to the opening of this line the ore had reached Consett on a circuitous route of the old Stockton and Darlington railway via Crook and then by the Waskerley line (now a fine walkway) to reach Consett after passing over Hownsgill. It also served to transport coal from the mines in the area particularly from Bearpark and Langley Park although there were also smaller pits at Malton and Lanchester. The line opened in 1862, a famous year in Tyneside folklore, as that was the year when on the 4th of June that everyone went along the Scotswood Road to the Blaydon Races! The line was never a success for passenger traffic and indeed Lanchester station closed in 1939 to passengers although it did open for passengers for specials such as the Durham Miners Gala. The last Gala train ran on 17/7/1954. There were four stations on the line at Lanchester, Malton, Langley Park and Bearpark (which was known as Aldin Grange until 1927).
Leaving the carpark in a southerly direction we reach, almost immediately after leaving the village we reach a small wood of just over 3 hectares called Doras Wood which is owned by the Woodland Trust. A group from Lanchester help to look after this wood and other places hereabouts with conservation work. Leaving the railway line we walk alongside the burn and arrive at Watersmeet where the River Browney and the Smallhope Burn meet. This, in the past was a good place to see little owls but recently none have been seen. However the whole of this area is good for many common species and in winter fieldfare and redwing can be found. In summer there are plenty of skylarks in the fields alongside the track although sadly this species is declining nationally, along with the thrushes which also inhabit this valley. Continuing along the river bank after a further half a mile you will reach Malton Picnic Park where an area of massive industrial damage has been restored by Durham County Council.
Here we cross the river into a small collection of houses that are all that is left of Malton Colliery village. Note the War memorial at the end of the terrace of houses. At the end of the terrace we take the footpath in a south-east direction towards Biggen Farm and pass through a Nature Reserve ran by the Durham Wildlife Trust. On leaving Biggen Farm we take the lane to the right crossing the minor road to Esh and arrivie at Quebec village. Esh down the road has a good footpath scheme developed some years ago in the Parish Paths Project which also provided maps of all the footpaths in the village. The name is a corruption of Ash.
At Quebec we are on the route of Dere Street for a shortwhile (more on this later) and opposite Greenland Road at the junction we pick up the track leading to Heugh which is actually Dere Street. At the end of the second field on the right we head south with views to the left of Esh Winning and the Deerness Valley. In less thah quarter of a mile we turn right heading broadly west to Rowley Farm and arrive at Hedleyhill Lane at a bend in the road. Just before Rowley Farm there are three ditched and banked enclosures which run on an east to west axis. Next to the one on the west on the OS map it is marked as part of the moat which surrounded the site. The middle one is thought to have been a chapel whilst the western is thought to have been the residence. The site was granted by the famous Bishop Pudsey to William de Howden in the late 12th Century. He was an important clerk in the diocese. The site changed hands to William de Raw and on his death was acquired by the Nevilles. The site was abandoned in the 17th Century. Note that in earlier times all the land appears to have been owned by the Normans.
In the past further up Hedleyhill road was a pub called The Fir Tree which was known throughout the area as Hogans after the family that owned it. This was quite a common practice as pubs stayed in family ownership for many years but this is very rare now. Just before the road on the left to Waterhouses (known to some as Moffattland) we turn right to Bells House on a good track and a few yards from the farm we head steeply down to the right (north) to Low Row after crossing the road. We now proceed uphill to North Ravensbush Wood. It is best to be here in late spring as this wood is a superb place for bluebells and rarely visited being on a minor footpath. At the top of the wood we go west, crossing four fields to arrive at Cornsay village (not to be confused with Cornsay Colliery village two miles to the east). The views across to Hedleyhope fell are very fine. The village green here makes an excellent rest stop with its quirky old well.
The Browney Valley from a point just east of Cornsay village.
We leave Cornsay to the north descending steeply down Cornsay Lane, and then take the footpath on the right after the bend in the road at GR148441. The footpath contours round the field before going downhill to the road opposite Ragpath Side Farm. Recently this farm was used for a dry stone walling competition. We now head right (east) for a short distance on the road and then take a footpath on the left which soon rejoins a very minor road at Ragpathside Plantation. We continue along the road ignoring the first path on the left to Throstle Nest Farm (Thrushes Farm) and turn into the access road for Colepike Mill crossing the River Browney.
Colepike Mill was a fulling mill. Fulling (known as waulking in Scotland) is a process in the making of woollen cloth where the wool is pounded to remove dirt and oils etc and to make it thicker, This was originally done by stamping on it when it was covered in urine, hence the term walking to describe fulling. This system was replaced by power from water mills which carried out the process mechanically. Fulling Mills in Wales were known as pandy and this crops up in many Welsh place names. After thickening the wool was stretched on tenters fixed by tenterhooks and this led to the well known expression still in use today. Finally the material could be bleached by stretching it out and leaving it to action from sun and water, but the discovery of chlorine made this process redundant. The OS map indicates bleach green here so it is a safe assumption that bleaching was carried out. It is worth noting that fulling was started by the Arabs arriving in Spain in the 12th Century before reaching Britain.
From Colepike Mill we go north heading up to Middlewood Farm and note that the direction changes in the third field after leaving the mill. Here it crosses diagonally across the field instead of the field edge and directly across the next two fields to the farm. This farm goes back to the enclosure days and also took advantage of the supply of stone just down the road at the fort. It is now a short distance to the Satley road. We walk left for a short distance and take the road to the right to Upper Houses Farm which is the HQ for Lanchester Dairies. This is passed to reach one of the many Newbiggins to be found in the north. Here the old farm has been converted into housing and it is good to see that the gingang has been retained in the development. We now turn right towards Lanchester and after about 100 yards take the footpath on the left which drops onto the Lanchester walkway which is followed for one mile back to the start.
Further Information on Dere Street
Dere Street has been mentioned more than once in this walk description and overall l tend to feel that this Roman Road from York to the Forth valley is neglected. No doubt that this is probably due to the fact that much of it is still used and it is in rare places that the original road can be seen. Perhaps the best place to see the original track is on the Scottish side of the border coming from Chew Green which is at the head of the Coquet valley and walking down from the border to Towfoot and onwards towards Jedburgh where you can really feel the presence of the past in isolated country. This part of Dere Street is used for the Alternative Pennine Way path from Ashbourne in Derbyshire to Jedburgh. However on this walk you are walking on a track for a short distance at Quebec and the line of the road can be seen from Grenwell Farm at GR163458 leading up to the fort across the fields. In 2000 Durham County Council produced a useful leaflet on Dere Street which described the route and gave brief details of the forts on the route in our region, starting at Catterick and including Piercebridge (once in Durham), Binchester where part of the surface of Dere Street can be seen, Lanchester and Ebchester as well as mentioning further forts to the north such as Corbridge and Rochester. Dere Street was built circa AD80 and the original forts were timber built. The remains you see today were built of stone about 200 years later.
A good book to read for further information on the Roman occupation is “Roman England” by John Burke whilst on a more local note the books by Raymond Selkirk propose some very interesting theories which are backed up by facts in some cases. “The Piercebridge Formula” (1983), “On the Trail of the Legions” (1995) and “Chester-le-Street and Its Place in History” (2000).
Shincliffe and Low Burnhall Wood
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 miles (or 13.5 miles with Gilesgate diversion)
Start: High Shincliffe, lay-by on old A177 (GR NZ295402)
Map: OS Explorer 308 – Durham and Sunderland and OS Explorer 305 – Bishop Auckland
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This excellent walk is good to do at any time of the year but is probably best in Autumn as there are several large deciduous woods on the route and many other areas with lots of trees. Furthermore it passes through the new acquisition of land by the Woodland Trust of Low Burnhall Wood and over the years walkers will be able to see the new wood develop in much the same way as has happened in Lotties Wood near Sunniside, Hedley Wood near Beamish and what is just starting at Elemore Wood near to Littletown and Easington Lane.
We start at the lay-by at High Shincliffe which was part of the old road and walk down it to the A177. Immediately opposite is a footpath sign and a nameplate which is Strawberry Lane and this is followed south on a tarmac surface. At the point where the road turns right to West Grange you continue south into a field where the route takes a slight kink to the left before resuming its direction south. West Grange is an old farm dating back to the 17th Century. Very soon this becomes a hedged lane where Durham County Council have done recent work improving the hedges. The route continues south for about 3/4 of a mile to a crossroad of paths where we keep straight ahead. The one on the left goes to South Grange whilst in the other direction to the west the bridleway goes to High Butterby Farm on the Weardale Way. Many of the farms here are called Granges named after their first use as a barn, where the French word for barn is a grange.
Strawberry Lane
It is straight ahead for a further mile to another crossroads of paths which are ignored. The path now enters a wood and on leaving the wood proceed south and then east to reach Tursdale House. This old farmhouse was formerly an old coaching inn and the small building on your right was a blacksmith’s shop which was converted to a house some time ago. I believe that the roofer committed suicide by stabbing himself on Durham Cathedral Altar about 50 years ago. Strawberry Lane was in fact a major road going to Durham in the 17th Century. The bridleway continues on the access road to Tursdale House downhill to reach Tursdale Beck and Hett Mill. On the other side is the Newcastle to London main line and the alarm for the crossing is heard frequently. We turn upstream on the north bank and follow the clear engineered path upstream in fine woodland and after about half a mile the footpath climbs uphill to exit the wood. On the day we did this walk in October all of the distance covered was alive with birdlife with numerous fieldfare and redwings as well as many yellowhammers and other birds feeding on the numerous berries.
On leaving the wood and turning left you cross through a hedge via two stiles with a waymark for the West Bowburn Way and continuing west with the wood on your left you walk the length of the field. Both magpies and jays can be seen in the wood and note the steep drop down to the beck. At the end of the field continue round the edge now heading north, ignore the first path on your left (where there is a new stile) and go through the next gate onto a broad track which is within the grounds of Croxdale Hall. The track descends to cross an outlet from the lake on your right by stepping stones. You now continue north over a stile and passing through newly created parkland for about 200 yards you soon reach a hard road which is the access road to High Croxdale Farm. We now head west and in less than half a mile come to Croxdale Hall. This was built about 1760 for General Salvin who was the father of the architect and is a Grade 1 listed building. Also listed as a Grade 1 listed building is the 12th Century chapel. The house still belongs to the Salvins and during World War 2 it served as a military hospital and then as a maternity hospital until 1952. Continuing west the carriageway crosses Tursdale Beck and passes between an avenue of trees before going under the A167, which was the old A1 north prior to the opening of the A1M, and arrives at the old Sunderland Bridge over the River Wear.
Sunderland Bridge
A bridge has been here since the 13th Century and although the date of the current bridge is not known it is thought to be from the 16th Century. It required major works in the 1700s on at least four occasions and the two central arches are the only full survivors as both the end arches collapsed. Turn right immediately over the bridge in front of the house to emerge on the A167 at its junction with the B6300. Cross both with extreme care and pass by the Honest Lawyer which certainly seems, like the pub in Derbyshire called “The Quiet Woman” a contradiction in terms! Shortly after crossing Browney Bridge there is a new gateway on your right which leads into Low Burnhall Wood.
This wood is now going to be planted in some of the meadows and pasture land which was bought at auction by the Trust and is 67 hectares (166 acres) in size. At first you follow the Browney down towards its outlet into the Wear and follow the new paths through meadows north towards Low Burnhall Farm. The site is currently being developed and planting will take place over the next 3 years (from 2010). There is already some Ancient Semi Natural Woodland alongside the river and the plan includes some wild flower meadows adjacent to the A167. Species being planted are all natural to this area and include ash, oak, hazel and rowan plus the black poplar which is quite uncommon.
The area on the other side of the Wear at Low Butterby has an oxbow lake to the south of the farmhouse and is an SSSI where you can find wildfowl in the winter. It is rare in having swamp, fen and fen carr all on the same site. Head north through the field (soon to be planted) to arrive at the access road to Low Burnhall Farm about 400 yards to the west of the buildings and here you pick up the public footpath. This passes to the left of most of the buildings (which are currently being converted to houses) and climbs up following the bend in the river and the contours, before dropping down steeply to cross a small beck by a footbridge. It is straight up then for a short distance to a field where the boundary is followed uphill to Pinnock Hill and emerges onto Hollingside Lane. In medieval days this was the main route north to Durham Cathedral. This unsurfaced road is taken north passing by the Botanic Garden on the left and then Grey College on the right to emerge on a busy road which is the road off the A167 at the Cock of the North roundabout to Durham Centre. Head uphill for a very short distance to cross it by the pedestrian crossing and then continue a few yards further uphill to a road junction where you turn right onto Elvet Hill Road and a sign pointing to the Oriental Museum.
You are now on university land and will pass the Government and International Affairs building followed by Teikyo University buildings on your left and Trevelyan College on the right to come to a t-junction with a cemetery on your left. Immediately opposite is a footpath sign where a broad track waymarked Quarry Heads Lane leads down to the Wear and Prebends Bridge. However on reaching the road take the footpath back up the hill to the Observatory where Salvin was the architect. Alternatively at Potters Lane junction where the footpath goes downhill, the area in front of you is open space with a footpath heading uphill in a north-west direction and at the top is a super view of Durham Cathedral which is best seen in late afternoon with the sun illuminating the western walls and windows. A right of way shown on the map from near the Observatory takes you past sport fields and through a new housing development in the grounds of Nevilles Cross College. This is followed round the back of some older houses to come to the A690 at Nevilles Cross near to a church.
Go down the road for a short distance and opposite some stairs on the other side of the road take an earth path on your right which leads to an infant school. This is followed downhill in a cutting to reach a road where you head north for about 200 yards. Just after a school on your right take a path down on your right through some allotments, up the other side to the right to eventually come out on South Street looking across to the cathedral. Head north here and just before the road starts to go downhill search out an opening on your left which leads into the churchyard of the church of St Margaret of Antioch. This is a restful place with a seat. The church looks modern but is in fact from Norman times although much altered by later work. Descend the steep steps at the front and turn downhill to reach the bridge over the Wear. It has been pedestrianised for many years and it is difficult to imagine the many buses which used to go over it! As soon as you cross the bridge and pass the path down to the river take the very narrow ginnel on your right which is marked as a route to the cathedral and castle and follow this narrow alley to emerge at the Shakespeare pub. This is reputedly one of the most haunted pubs in the country. Here turn left towards the market place and then immediately right down to Elvet Bridge. At the bridge take the steep steps on your left down to the river level at the boating station. You are again back on the Weardale Way.
The Weardale Way is followed upstream with the river on your right passing a footbridge leading to Old Elvet and continues to Old Durham and its walled garden. Here you also see the embankment of the old railway to Elvet Station. There are two alternatives depending on the amount of daylight available. The easy way back to the start is to follow the path behind the embankment, then cross the bridge over Old Durham Beck on the Weardale Way to reach the Wear. Then cross over to Maiden Castle sport fields and follow the riverside path to Shincliffe Bridge which is crossed. Turn right and go through Shincliffe village heading south to return to the A177 at the Seven Stars pub. This was the main road before the bypass. At the pub cross the A177 and follow the road on a footpath uphill back to the start.
However, a better way which avoids all roads is to turn left up the broad track at Old Durham, pass by Old Durham Farm and reach a t-junction near Bent House Farm. Here turn downhill towards the B1198 (called Mill Lane). About 200 yards before the beck, and where the track levels out, turn left through a farm gate (not waymarked) which crosses two fields to the side of the beck opposite the cattery and cutting across the bend you reach a footbridge and arrive on Mill Lane. Cross this with care and head east for a short distance to pick up a footpath which is on the route of the first railway into Durham, where Shincliffe served as the first Durham station. Go west along this path towards Shincliffe for a short distance and then take the footpath heading uphill to Manor Farm which is passed on your right. This is a new farmhouse built about 50 years ago on the site of Bank Top pit at High Shincliffe. The main farm building on your left was the winding house which pulled the waggons up and down on the slope that you have just climbed. It is now a short distance to the village houses and after the school turn right to the A177 and the start.
If you are doing this walk on a longer day l would recommend turning left at the first bridge you reach after dropping down to the river opposite the old public swimming pool (sadly currently in disrepair) and going uphill to Gilesgate. When you reach St Giles church where the slope eases turn right towards the church and then immediately left. There is a footpath past some cottages which after about 200 yards reaches a lane near to some new apartments built on the site of Woods lemonade factory and a waymark heading back to the river. The surprise here is the stream which is crossed by a footbridge very high above the water. This is a relatively unknown part of Durham known only to a few . At the end of the footbridge turn left. The other path on the right takes you quickly down to the river. The one on the left, which we take, goes gradually downhill across the contours to reach a lane which is stepped down back to the river and the Weardale Way only a short distance upstream from Old Durham. A worthwhile diversion and a quiet one which enhances the walk.
John Buchan Way (Peebles to Broughton)
Filed under: Scottish Border AreaDistance: 13 miles
Start: Peebles
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Sometimes in life things happen by accident and the John Buchan Way is a case in point. A group of ten of us had been walking the Border Abbeys Way which is a circular 65 mile walk linking up the border abbeys in the following sections:
Jedburgh to Hawick – 13 miles
Hawick to Selkirk – 12 miles
Selkirk to Melrose – 10 miles
Melrose to Kelso – 18 miles
Kelso to Jedburgh – 12 miles
These sections are not balanced and we jiggled about with the stages involving Melrose by extending the route from Selkirk to Melrose to Clint Mains shortening the 18 mile stage. The section to Selkirk was also shortened due to inclement weather. The walk was done on four occasions and two sections were done over the course of two consecutive days. Our base was the excellent Auld Cross Keys Inn at Denholm superbly ran by Karen and Dave. This is an old coaching inn which has been well modernised and has about ten good quality rooms. A feature is that they are all twins which is good news for both walking groups and golfing groups which also come to this fine area. Denholm is well positioned as the walk is broadly circular and Denholm is near to the hub with no section being more than 40 mins away by car. The inn has real ale as has the Fox and Hounds in the village which is a pleasant change for Scotland and the food is good value with more than adequate portions. The Auld Cross Keys is certainly a recommended place to stay and can be contacted on 01450 870305 or visit their website at www.crosskeysdenholm.co.uk
We went back for a second visit as two of our group had missed out a section (not the same one) so after a little bit of logistics we split into three parties. Two to do the missing sections and the other went on the Alternative Pennine Way from outside of Jedburgh up to the Roman marching camp at Towfoot, under the border ridge. This section of Dere Street is probably the most evocative of the whole of Dere Street due to the quiet situation, the route is still a path and has an old feel. The day ended with us all at Denholm by 6.30pm giving us plenty of time to enjoy a social night together.
The next day was free and we decided to walk the John Buchan Way which was new territory for all of us. The John Buchan Way is a 13 mile route from Peebles to Broughton and as both ends are linked by a good bus service it is easy to do as a linear walk with one car by parking at either end and using the bus. The route opened in 2003 and is named after the writer and diplomat John Buchan (1875-1940) who is probably best known as the writer of “The 39 Steps”. It is very well waymarked and makes use of the many hill tracks in the area with a minimum of road walking.
We set off with average expectations but these were heightened by the well thought out route out of Peebles over Cademuir Hill and its hillforts and fine views all round. We then dropped into the Manor Water which is followed to the Glack which is one house. There is then another pleasant ascent over the hills before you look down on to the Tweed valley and Stobo Kirk. This is only yards off the route and must be visited with the church going back to possibly 1120. A good place for lunch! There is good information in the church concerning Merlin and the stained glass windows.
John Buchan Way crossing the col on Cademuir
Leaving Stobo you go off into higher country up the Easton Burn and into remote sheep country under Penvalla. After a drop into a valley containing the isolated farm of Stobo Hopehead it is uphill again to Hammer Head and over the watershed where you follow the Broughton Hope Burn downhill to arrive at Broughton Place. I suggest that here you look back from whence you have came for a super view of the hills encircling you. We took several photos of this view. Broughton Place, contrary to what you expect, is a 20th Century building in the old Scottish style. It contains a fine art gallery and surely there is no other in such a fine position! It is now only a short distance into Broughton and the Laurel Bank Tearoom or the pub but note the fine garden on your right before the pub which is open to visitors. A little further on, also on the right, is the home of Broughton Ales which are recommended and have won many awards. The walk finally ends at the John Buchan Centre also on the right.
John Buchan Way - path to Broughton Hope
This is an absolutely superb walk in remote country where there are no shops and even few houses en route. The path is good underfoot and is on historical old drove routes. We did in fact meet three other walkers from Edinburgh who had came down for the day to do the walk and after completing the walk we have mentioned it to other walkers. All those who have tried it have been full of praise for it. Why not try it yourself – a great place for Bank Holidays away from the crowds.
The Borders Council originally produced excellent leaflets on each section of the Border Abbeys Walk with very detailed maps. Indeed you could walk the route using the maps. These have now been condensed into a book whilst the John Buchan Way is detailed on another leaflet. These can all be obtained from the Tourist Offices at Jedburgh and Melrose and other places on the route, as well as the Countryside Ranger Service HQ at Harestanes on the A68 near Ancrum to the north of Jedburgh, where there also is a shop and a tearoom with excellent scones!This is on the St Cuthberts Way.
Recommended books on this region are Alan Hall’s “The Border Country” from Cicerone, The SMC book “The Southern Uplands” by Ken Andrew and David Steel’s “The Border Country” with fine photos by Charlie Waite.
As regards the Border Abbeys Way, there are better walks for a few days such as the Cumbrian Way or the Dales Way but nevertheless this is a a pleasant walk in generally easy surroundings with plenty of space and some historic small border towns which are always a pleasure to be at.
A gentle area with gentle and friendly people and always the opportunity to take a day off and visit nearby Edinburgh.
Bilsdale and Bransdale
Filed under: OtherDistance: 14 miles
Start: Chop Gate village hall (OS 559993)
Map : OS Explorer Map 26 – North Yorkshire Moors: Western Area
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This walk shows the several aspects of this fine walking area which being in a National Park avoids many of the problems with footpaths encountered in other parts of the North riding of Yorkshire.
It starts at the Community Centre at Chop Gate, which is about 200 yards south of the pub, where there is parking, picnic tables and toilets. You leave on to the road and pick up the footpath on the far side of the road to William Beck Farm. In July 2010 there was notice of a sensible diversion round the farm to the north which I would expect to be in use shortly. The diversion passes behind the farm and comes to a lane heading east uphill steeply through Black Intake. A short distance after this levels out you arrive at a broad track which has been much improved for grouse shooting. This should be taken right and after a very short distance it descends down to Tripsdale Beck which is a nice secluded corner. There is an alternative footpath which can be used but this could well be grouse and other waders nesting territory and particularly in the nesting season this is probably best avoided.
The access track now heads east up on to Hag House Moor and Slape Wath Moor with extensive views all round and a feeling of space which is something that I like. About 2 miles after Tripsdale and after passing two lunch shelters for the grouse shooters (not open on our visit) the track joins a further large track heading in a north to south direction next to Stump Cross. This is an ancient road called the Thurkilsti track. The cross (which is a stump only) is on your left. Now go south looking down into Bransdale on your left and after one and a half miles you arrive at the tarmac road leading north to Cockayne. The walking has been very easy with little in the way of hills other than the climb up from Tripsdale. Note the cairns to the west which are a common feature on these moors.
Stump Cross
On reaching the road you head immediately south-west along a narrow track passing the oddly named Botany Bay on the OS map. The track, although small, is clear and obviously used by many walkers. In less than a mile it drops down to cross Bonfield Gill without a problem (unless in flood when you might get your feet wet) to pass to the right of a small wood and reach another broad track which is a further access track for the grouse business. Cross this track and continue for a further mile and a half in the same south-west direction to Black Holes, where the track joins a bridleway. Go down to a wall in front of you where there should be another wall coming up from Bilsdale joining the wall at right angles. Here is a gate and now follow the bridleway downhill, with the fence on your left, to enter Kirkhill Plantation. The track goes down to the left to reach the B1257. Here turn north for about 100 yards and take the footpath on your left which passes to the left of High Evecote and crosses the beck by a foot bridge. Watch out as it may be slippyhere. Continue north passing behind The Grange to arrive at a farm access road to Stigamyers and Coniser. Turn down in that direction (west) and where the road takes a sharp turn left, take the footpath to the north past Stable Holme. If you have crossed a small stream you have missed the correct route which is waymarked.
The route after Stable Holme is well defined alongside a wall to Beacon Guest where you head uphill on its access road and behind the house. It does not look right on the ground but it is the correct way. After going through one field you should go through a gate and follow the path north maintaining your height. The wall is on your right through open land with grazing cattle and sheep. On the other side of the wall is enclosed fields and after passing by three of these fields you will see High Crookleith Farm diagonally in front to your right. Take the obvious large gate in the wall (not waymarked) and head diagonally across the two fields towards it. Just before the buildings turn right and pass by a silage pit before going in a north-east direction to find a footbridge over Hollow Bottom Beck. The waymarking hereabouts is poor for a National Park. It now improves as you head left for a short distance back towards High Crookleith on their access road before taking the waymarked path to Low Crookleith. Here you follow the waymarked path right and then left to cross three fields where wheat is currently grown. This is quite a rare crop in this part of the valley. The hillside above High Crookleith suffered a big landslide a few years ago and prevented access to the farm for quite a while. At Orterley Farms turn north-east down to the River Seph (which can be wet through the woods) back to the start, or go to the west of Orterley Farm to then head north over three fields to the old mining track which then leads back down to the start.
Addendum
For those wanting more information on the crosses of ther North Yorks Moors there is an excellent booklet called “An Illustrated Guide to the Crosses of the North York Moors” by Elizabeth Ogilvie and Audrey Sleightholme, whilst Trailblazer also have a book on walking to the crosses.
Ogilvie and Sleightholme state that stump Cross has one of the largest bases of any of the crosses at 2ft 6ins square and in 1829 it was known as ‘the cross with a hand’, which was presumably a waymark.
They also state that a short distance from Stump Cross to the north-west the Thurkilsti joins the Via Magna which in 1154 was called the great road coming from the Thurskilsti. Note the change of spellimg. Was this the derivation of Thirsk?