Dodd Fell and the Pennine Way
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 miles
Start: Gayle, opposite public room at GR872894
Map : OL 2 – Yorkshire Dales: South and West and OL 30 – Yorkshire Dales: Northern and Central
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Wednesday October 21st promised a day of total sunshine and clear visibility so there was little to discuss when we met at Chester le Street. It had to be the high hills where we could enjoy fine views and 90 minutes later we were parking in Gayle village next to Hawes. Our objective was a good stroll along the Pennine Way and a visit to Dodd Fell just off route as it was a 2000ft hill we had not climbed. It was the first day of winter in Gayle, but what a day with clear skies and a thick frost in all the places out of the sun. Without further ado it was over the roadbridge towards Hawes and then turning upstream past some attractive cottages alongside Gayle Beck and the West End to pick up the Pennine Way on the left of the lane. After one field you turn right and over a further two fields to emerge at tarmac. A few yards to the right and it is left again up Gaudy Lane for half a mile to the place where there is a barn and the entrance to Gaudy House which is a farm. Here you leave the track and get onto grass which is followed uphill keeping alongside the wall. At the first gate you reach open access land. The way ahead is clear and the path is not damaged over Rottenstone Hill and onwards upwards.
The footpath eventually levels off and indeed descends for a short while before joining a bridleway on the right. This is Cam Road West. The route is alongside a wall with lovely views down into Snaizeholme Beck on your right. The bulk of Dodd Fell is in front of you just to the left of the Pennine Way. We decided to go up as soon as we reached the bottom rather than stay on the Pennine Way and this was a good decision as it is reasonably easy to gain height on several of the faint sheep tracks. The top is fairly level and wet so watch your feet when approaching the trig point. Although a modest height (and certainly Dodd Fell is a fell) the views were tremendous. To the south you look out to the edge of Pen y Ghent and the distant Pendle Hill. To the west is Ingleborough and Whernside and to the north Great Shunner Fell and Lovely Seat, whilst behind is Nine Standards Rigg and Wild Boar Fell. Looking east there is Addlebrough and behind the North Yorksire Moors. The Lakes were very clearly visible with the Langdale Pikes and Great Gable standing out. What a view and what a distance! When you ascend Newbiggin Common in Teesdale (another 2000 ft hill) you get a similar 360 degree view without the Lakes but as a bonus you can see Scotland and the Cheviots, and in both cases (and particularly on Newbiggin Fell) you can see over 100 miles!
On the West Cam Road
It was too wet to sit down on the summit so we headed south towards Pen y Ghent. The terrain was more akin to Bleaklow or nearby Yockenthwaite Moor but there are dry ways through and as you are looking down you can see them. After about 25 minutes you arrive at a wall where you turn left (east) and follow this to the corner where you turn down and in a short distance arrive on tarmac on the Cam High Road at North Gate. Cam High Road was developed by the Romans as a route from Ribblesdale to Bainbridge where they had a camp and years later served as a pack horse route.
North Gate was decision point with three alternatives. These were (a) go east along Cam High Road all the way to Bainbridge and get the bus back to Hawes, (b) go east along Cam High Road and turn off to Buttersett and back to Gayle or (c) go west along Cam High Road to rejoin the Pennine Way and return to Gayle on another route. The latter route was chosen so that we could enjoy the fine views for another hour and a half. Cam High Road here is surfaced as it serves as the access road to Cam Houses and Cam Pasture which can be seen ahead in front of the forest. This is on the Dales Way which shares a short distance on Cam High Road with the Pennine Way.
The valley on your left is the headwaters of the River Wharfe . It is over a mile on the Cam High Road before you come to the Pennine Way junction at Kidhow Gate and the junction is well marked. You now turn north on the Pennine Way with Dodd Fell on your right and the head of Snaizdale Beck on your left. This deepens rapidly to give a beautiful valley and a small lake set amongst woodland. You have about 3 miles enjoying this before you reach the junction where Cam Road West descends to the left and the Pennine Way ascends slightly. We had earlier came down that section but overall there is only about one mile on the Pennine Way which was walked earlier in the day.
To vary our walk we took the Cam Road West steeply downhill on a track which has been destroyed by the 4WD brigade. It levels out near a wood and at the end of the wood the surface is improved. You have to ask the question of who pays for the massive damage that these vehicles cause spoiling the route for walkers, cyclists and horseriders alike? I read recently that over £1 million has been spent on the Walna Scar road and that 6 months later the road was back in the same state. Equally the massive spend at Old Ing a few miles south of here towards Horton on the Pennine Way was back into its original damaged state within a few months. With the current economic squeeze will these vast expenditures cause many bridleways and footpaths to be neglected or will the authorities allow some of these 4WD routes to deteriorate further? Time will tell…
The views ahead down towards Hawes are attractive and just before reaching the A687 turn right into Bands Lane passing the farm. At the t-junction you can go either left and stay on the tarmac or better go right for a short distance to pick up the Pennine Way. At the end of the second field you leave the Pennine Way which actually misses out Gayle and go straight ahead on a good track over one field to come into Gayle and back to the car.
This great day ended in the George and Dragon at Aysgarth where we all enjoyed a pint of George and Dragon beer brewed by Yorkshire Brewing which is a small but expanding brewery at nearby Askrigg and is brewed for the pub.
Up and Around Stanhope Burn
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 to 14 miles
Time: 6hrs 30mins
Start: St Thomas Church, Market Square, Stanhope (GR NY 996392)
Map : OS Explorer 307 – Consett and Derwent Reservoir
Click to view start position on Google Maps
The Stanhope Burn is popular with discerning walkers but is not known as well as it might be. This is possibly due to the fact that its entrance from Stanhope is not particularly obvious although everyone going over Crawleyside from Stanhope to Edmundbyers looks down on it and its obvious attractions. It is a haven for a wide variety of birdlife and for flora and on top of this there is an interesting history of exploitation for mineral wealth.
There was a lead smelter at Stanhope Mill and also a blast furnace for the production of steel operated by the Weardale Iron Company. The lead itself was mined further up the valley and on the right of the valley when ascending were the limestone quarries, now disused, at West Pasture. This is on the east side of the Stanhope Burn. This limestone was taken out of the Wear Valley by the railway line belonging to the Stanhope and Tyne Railway but more of that later when we descend from Parkhead down the incline.
The Stanhope Burn is followed down for all of its length on the Weardale Way walk from Stanhope to Rookhope and returning to Stanhope via Redgate Head and Steward Shield. On this walk we will go up the western side of the burn to eventually reach the C2C route which is followed to Parkhead and then descend the eastern side above the burn. This will give extensive views of Weardale and the Durham moors which are an integal part of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
Stanhope itself, where we start, is an interesting small town and one can easily spend a half day or more exploring it and the surroundings. St Thomas Church goes back to Norman times some of which still survives in the base of the western tower. The arch of the tower is pointed and is obviously later than Norman. The church also contains Frosterley Marble columns. This church gave the richest living in England due to the lead industry and the high value of the tithes paid to the rectors for the rights to explore and mine for lead. Some of this wealth was used by Bishop Barrington to build schools in the area but the driving force here was probably to compete with the Methodists and Wesleyans who enjoyed much support in Weardale. Near to the entrance is the famous fossil tree which was mined on Edmundbyers Moor and later moved to its current location. Next year sees its 50th anniversary in this place as it arrived in Stanhope in 1962. Note also the story on the nearby Moorcock Inn. Opposite is Stanhope Castle rebuilt in 1798 on the site of an old tower. Further east is the Dales Centre with a TIC currently under threat of closure and the centre also has other facilities and shops.
We proceed west along the main road to pass the Edmundbyers road and cross the Stanhope Burn. Straight after this we turn right to enter the burn and pass Stanhope Hall. This is a very interesting building which has in its western parts a medieval construction date of the 13th Century. Note and mullioned and transomed windows which date back to either Jacobean or Elizabethan times. The other main history of this burn is the famous Heathery Burn Cave, the site of which was about a mile up the valley. This cave was 500 ft long and when discovered contained the tools of a Late Bronze Age metal workers site including tongs and moulds etc. Antler check pieces from horse bits were also found and are the earliest finds of the use of chariots in the country. More macabre were the broken skulls also found. Sadly the cave was lost due to the site being quarried for limestone but all of the artefacts are housed in the British Museum.
There is a choice of routes and in dry weather the best route is via Widley Field and Pease Mires to arrive at High House. However after periods of wet weather an easier alternative, albeit on a very quiet road, is the minor road which leaves the A689 just after the entrance to Stanhope Hall and goes to Noahs Ark (at somewhere about 1000 ft above sea level) before continuing to High House on a footpath. We now descend to Stewarts Shield on an indistinct path and ford the Stanhope Burn (possibly wet feet after rain) before climbing up to the C2C. An alternative route maintaining height goes over Stanhope Common on a track to the shooting hut on Hawk Sites where there is a relatively easy mile to the C2C passing the grouse butts. This is open access land but should be avoided in the grouse season commencing on August 12th and is the best route up giving good views and saving a descent and further climb.
Having done all the various routes up my preferred route is to go up Stanhope Burn to GR 987401 where there is a corner in the wood. Look for the stile hidden behind a large tree trunk and head up to Widley Field passing an old adit mine entrance. At Widley turn left up the access road to the tarmac road and cross straight over. Skirt the side of the wood ahead, go through a gate and on reaching the fence turn right, Head along the fence and cross the stile before proceeding to Pease Mires. Here go through the gate into the farmyard and turn right round the back of a large barn where the track then proceeds north through a gate on to more open land. Ignore the path heading south-west to Mount Pleasant and go north-west eventually crossing the river by a bridge. Continue to now head noth-east, passing to the left of Park Shops which are a relic of the mining industry to get to High House. Here go on behind the house and down the side of the plantation passing a lake (not on the map) to a broad track on the left through the forest. Take this to arrrive at Hope House which was once an animal sanctuary. Turn left on the broad track which goes to the left gradually uphill and across fine moorland (where the birdlife in spring is superb with abundant golden plover and numerous meadow pipits, lapwings, curlew and of course red grouse) to arrive at a shooting hut after about one and a half miles. It is now best to go about another 100 metres behind the hut and go due north along the contour to reach the C2C route. The extra climb saves having to drop down to the tributary streams of the Stanhope Burn.
The C2C uses here the old trackbed of the Weardale Iron Company track from Rookhope to Parkhead where it joined the Stanhope line. This was built in 1847 to supply their blast furnaces at Tow Law with the iron stone they quarried at Rookhope and at over 1600ft (500 metres) this was the highest standard gauge railway line in the country. The line survived to 1943 and is now much used by walkers and cyclists. The steam engines halted at the top of the Boltsburn Incline (Redgate Head) where the winding house was used to haul the waggons the 66ft (approximately 200 metres) up from Rookhope. The ruins remain on site of buildings and the engine house.
Our route is east to Parkhead which was a junction where the Stanhope and Tyne met the Rookhope branch. It had a station and the building survives (albeit much modified) as accommodation at the Parkhead Cafe which is much appreciated by C2C riders! The old line was initially developed by Durham County Council as one of their railway paths and is known as the Waskerley Way after the station and old shed which were two miles down the line from Parkhead. The Stanhope and Tyne was, in fact, the first railway to Stanhope, and was built to carry limestone to the Tyne. It also later carried lead and ironstone with return loads of coal. The descent to Stanhope and the quarries was over 700ft on a steep slope and to achieve this the waggons were hauled by Stationary engines at Weatherhill and lower down at Crawleyside. Anyone over 50 will remember the gaunt engine house at Weatherhill. It is a pity that this was pulled down as it is now local history and complemented sites such as Killhope. The line from Parkhead to Stanhope closed in 1951 and the section from Parkhead over Hownesgill viaduct to Consett lasted until 1968. Stanhope was later reached by the easier route up the Wear valley in 1862 but progress further up the valley was slow with the line not reaching Wearhead for another 33 years in 1895. Nevertheless it then did take traffic from the routes over the fells and had further business with the development of Teeside.
There is a choice of routes back to Stanhope from Parkhead. The obvious way is to follow the railway parallel to the road to Crawleyside Engine House at GR995406 and then going along the top of the limestone escarpment called Crawley Edge to Jollybody Farm at GR003395, where a track takes you down to Stanhope.
For those wanting a closer look at Stanhope Burn an alternative is to leave the track about half a mile after Weatherhill, cross the B6278 and follow the clear track down to Stanhope Burn and the mine workings. It is then straightforward on the old quarry road back to Stanhope Hall. The track brings you onto the Crawleyside road which is followed down to Stanhope and back west to the hall, or alternatively the burn can be crossed to its west side. This eventually comes to the spot where you left it to head up to Widley.
If the weather is good then great views can be obtained by walking down to Weatherhill and passing by the Millstone Quarries to the east and then taking the footpath over Bashaw Head and the top of the Black Burn valley to descend to Hill Crest to reach Jollybody Farm. This can be difficult to find but if you head due south to the building on the horizon about a mile away there is no problem. Note the sheepfold of Bashaw Fold on the way down. A further footpath further to the east takes you to Collier Law with superb views to the north-east down to the Derwent Valley and Tyneside. From there you can drop down to Frosterley but that is another walk.
Whatever route is taken, in springtime this area is alive with waders such as curlew, peewits (lapwings), snipe in wetter patches and golden plover on higher ground, with oystercatchers near the Stanhope Burn, plus of course the red grouse and occasional black grouse.
For those wanting to know more about the North Pennines AONB there is much information to be obtained from their website. They also produce some interesting booklets, some of which have been discontinued due to the financial cutbacks. Another good source of information is Iain Brown’s excellent book called “The North Pennines” published in 2006 by Summary House Publications. I cannot recommend this book highly enough!
FOOTNOTES:
1. For those that do not recognise the scene on the cover of the Explorer Map the view shown is an error by the Ordnance Survey who used a photograph of another Derwent reservoir in the Derbyshire Peak District!
2. The longer routes are those via Jollybody Farm.
Cold Fell and Geltsdale
Filed under: Durham 2000ft HillsDistance: 12 miles
Start: Car Park, Tindale (South Tyne Valley)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map : OS Explorer 31 – Teesdale and Weardale
This walk was done to walk up and tick off Cold Fell from the list of 2000 foot hills left to walk and to make a decent walk of it we decided on a route via Geltsdale and arrive at the summit from the south-west. Walkers who tick off lists and complete various heights of hills are often criticised but when l was doing the Wainwrights over twenty years ago l found out two things; dedication was a necessity and the benefit was that you visited many corners you would never normally get to by sticking to your favourites. The 2000 foot hills carry on this message and led us to discovering Geltsdale which was subsequently walked in detail on another walk.
This walk commences at the hamlet of Tindale in the quiet countryside west of Lambley in the South Tyne valley. Years ago this area had some small coal mines and much bigger quarries and this is evident by the quarries which are visited on this walk and the derelict railways. One of these came to Tindale and its quarry before eventually joining the South Tyne Alston branch at Lambley not far from its superb restored viaduct. The South Tyne railway route from Haltwhistle to Alston is now a fine cycle and walkway.
There is a small car park at Tindale which you leave on a bridleway which goes west and can be seen, (although not always obvious!) on the ground. After about half a mile you go through a gate and continue with the RSPB reserve of Tindale Tarn on your left. At Thorn cross the small road and continue in the same direction to just south of Clesketts where another railway track is met at a junction of old tracks. Take the track to Forest Head at spot height 264 where and then turn left (south-east). This path goes across a disused quarry where there is one dangerous quarry face (which can be avoided) and after working through the quarry you will arrive on the Geltsdale track at GR587570. This is a super track which winds round Brown Hill and heads south. There are immediate views up and down Geltsdale which heads west about here. The two shepherds cottages of Gairs are below you and the way south is very attractive and easy.
Eventually after three miles you reach Old Water where a sheltered spot can be found. Here you turn left (east) up Old Water again on a good track which is followed on a gradual climb for over a mile. Around this stage the track disappears and we opted to reach Cold Fell which was somewhere above us by heading across the contours on a north-north-east bearing. The going here is very wet with hidden holes and demands respect. We aimed for Cold Spring at GR605546 but never found it, but this was no problem as by keeping on a north-east bearing you eventually come to the fence separating Tynedale from Geltsdale. In retrospect next time we will try to follow Old Water to the fence at GR618539 (to the north of Great Blacklaw Hill) and follow the faint path alongside the fence.
Cold Fell Summit
The summit of Cold Fell is interesting since it has rocks, which is a rare feature hereabouts. Leaving the summit you can descend in a north-east direction alongside the fence (with good views to the north) to a sheepfold at GR611562 and then head north-west over virgin territory for less than half a mile before picking up a track which was used for shooting in the past. I am not certain whether the RSPB now permit this as the area is a good breeding ground for waders. The track downhill is a beauty, especially after some of the more difficult ground already walked and arrives at Howgill Farm after one mile. Ahead is Tortie but we take the footpath (which is waymarked and good underfoot) alongside Howgill Beck and past Stagsike to arrive at the RSPB office at Tarn House. This is a lovely area which can be strolled on a short day and the excellent footpath continues past the tarn and to the south of Tindale Quarry. At the end of the quarry you leave the old mine track and pass Doleshole to arrive at the A689. Here you turn left over Woodend Bridge and up the minor road at Riggfoot Farm back to the start. This walk is at times hard but is rewarding for the quality of the country and the wide open spaces.
Newbiggin Common
Filed under: Durham 2000ft HillsDistance: 12 miles
Start: Bowlees Picnic Park, Bowlees
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map : OS Explorer 31 – Teesdale and Weardale
The weather forecast was sun and showers and that was good enough for the three of us to decide to ‘knock off’ one of the remaining 2000ft hills of England. The top and trig point of 675 metres is some distance from the wording of Newbiggin Common on the map and after discussion we decided to start at Bowlees Picnic Park as parking in Newbiggin in Teesdale is sparse. Bowlees, in any case is a good Country Park with good toilets and Low Force on the Tees a short distance away.
There is an excellent exit from Bowlees by crossing the bridge over Bowlees Beck to the west bank and following the footpath through the woods. On leaving the wood head immediately to the left up a steep bank and then going north across Causeway Sike and continuing north towards Bradleys Gate. Beware however if there has been heavy rain as the next beck called Westwee Beck can be difficult to cross and can mean wet feet. Durham County Council hope to have a footbridge here sometime but in the current situation this looks a long way off. Go round the back of Bradleys Gate and exit on to the minor road by the farm access.
We decided that the easiest way to gain height was to walk up the road for a distance of over two miles to the summit and for the whole of the distance there was not one single car on the road. The views are wide ranging with Dora’s Seat prominent to the left. Indeed the summit is the turning point on the 2000ft walk to Chapel Fell and Fendrith Hill which was walked some time ago and will appear on this site in the future. It is wise to take advantage of the wall on the summit if weather conditions are adverse and it is lunchtime as this is the last shelter for quite a while. There is an indistinct track on the Teesdale side of the border fence between Teesdale and Weardale and this is followed all the way to the summit trig point. There are some boggy parts but overall the going is better than you would expect. Just near the summit, where there are substantial peat deposits, the track has been developed and made passable for vehicles by the extensive use of wooden palings.
The effort to climb this barely known hill is well worth it, as the views on a clear day are exceptional with a 360 degree panorama. Starting in the north-west you can see into Scotland and then along to Cheviot. Coming down the east much of Northumberland and Durham is seen with the Teeside industry in the distance. The whole of the Cleveland Escarpment is visible down to the Vale of York and to the south are the hills of the Yorkshire Dales. Further west is Mallerstang Edge and Wild Boar Fell and continuing west, and much nearer, is Meldon Fell, Great Dun Fell and Cross Fell with an unknown Lakeland peak peeping through. The distant views must be over 100 miles apart.
The Summit of Newbiggin Common / Westernhope Moor
The shortest way back to the start is to head due south over James Hill but the first mile is always wet underfoot and often exceedingly so. However in dry weather conditions if you are taking this route keep to the highest ground and then descend the nose to a corner of a wall at Weather Beds at GR927305. A more attractive way to reach this point is to take the landrover track heading east and within less than half a mile you reach the lunch huts for the shooters and beaters which are always in some way segregated. From the huts follow a foot track down to some smaller shooting butts and then follow the small stream marked on the map as Hudeshope Grains. This route gives good views of Upper Hudeshope which is wild country.
As you descend the slope gets steeper and it is not advised to drop down to the bottom as there is no easy route alongside the Hudeshope Beck. There are numerous sheep tracks and in this area that only the sheep know best! When you get to the 550 metre contour (which is about two thirds down the slope) head south, parallel to the beck at the bottom. This contour appears as a shelf and ahead of you is a large wall heading back up the slope. When you eventually reach this, follow the wall uphill to where it turns south at GR927305, (ie. the same place as the shorter route).
Continue south alongside the western side of this wall making towards the reservoir on Coldberry Moss. You ignore the gate in the wall and cross the stile into an enclosed area. After about 100 yards keep an eye open for a small stone stile in the wall to the east which marks the footpath coming up from Moor House Farm. This footpath is not visible on the ground but by heading west you will come to a wall which separates the moor from pasture and at a building you go through a gate to reach the farm. Here turn south alongside the wall. The bridleway passes through several gates, over Laddie Gill (a good spot for snipe) and at GR918284, just after going through a gate look carefully at the wall on your right. It contains a high stone stile which is well camouflaged. Cross this and the next field in the left hand corner. There is no stile at the bottom of the next field and this is being attended to by Durham County Council. It is however easy to avoid by taking the field exit on your right then after passing round the obstructed fence, turn left through a big gate into the field containing the desired footpath. Turning down the field there are two obvious gates into the hamlet of Newbiggin.
The Methodist Chapel here is the oldest chapel still in regular use for services in the UK and is a short distance along to the east after you have crossed the bridge over the beck which goes through the hamlet. It is uphill now on the very minor road to Weardale to GR913280 where a good footpath leads across a field to the houses at Hood Gill. This is passed to the rear and the path continues in charming countryside reaching Bowlees in less than half a mile.
An alternative descent, and an interesting one from the reservoir on Lords Allotment and Coldberry Moss is to pass the reservoir and descend into Coldberry Gutter which is a great example of a hush. This is about a mile less than our route and the hush is followed down to the bridleway, reaching it close to GR918824 and the hard to find stile.
It took us about 6 hours to complete the 12 miles as the terrain is very tussocky (and a broken ankle in Hudeshope would cause serious problems!) but this is a good walk when you want to escape habitations. There were about 4 hours when we were never nearer than 2 miles to any habitation and generally further away. There is good birdlife in Spring but be careful it is open if you plan to go on this walk, particularly after Aug 12th, when grouse shooting might be taking place and the estate is closed for open access.
A Walk Past the Cow’s Tail
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Start: Deerness Valley Railway Walk car park, Stanley/Crook
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map : OS Explorer 305 – Bishop Auckland and OS Explorer 307 – Consett and Derwent Reservoir
This walk could just as well be called “A Walk Up the Deerness Valley” or “A Circuit of Tow Law” but was given its name in an effort to help to preserve a little bit of local history. It starts at the car park on the Deerness Valley Railway Walk car park, just to the east of Stanley/Crook. This place must not be confused with the much bigger place of Stanley near to Beamish Museum 15 miles to the north.
Stanley/Crook was a small mining village which had two collieries and a well known old established football team called Stanley Utd. Until the opening of the pits in the 1850s this area was all moorland and remnants of this will be seen on the walk. The village was named after Stanley Hall just to the north. Like many other smaller communities (such as nearby Oakenshaw) the village was designated a Category D village and scheduled for demolition. Fortunately, like Oakenshaw and some others it happily survived and is a pleasant spot to live with wide ranging views. Before starting the walk take time to look at the magnificent memorial seat at the end of the car park dedicated to a local young man who ost his life at a tragically early age.
We start by heading north on the trackbed through young woodland with a lot of birdlife normally about and after passing two fields on the right come to a crossing of the track. To the north-west at this crossing can be seen the old school. Our route is to the east leaving the Deerness Railway and at a slight bend on the track take the stile in front of you alongside a very small stream with a narrow strip of bushes separating you from fields to the south and a motor course to the north. This is soon passed and you then enter into a open plantation where oak has been planted. Continue in the same direction alongside the stream until after 200 yards you come to a forest track at a t-junction. Take this track over the bridge in a north-west direction and after about 400 yards the track ends in a turning circle. The footpath continues to the right in a north-east direction and in a short while you will see the stile at the junction of the fields on your left. This footpath is then taken to the north, alongside a wall, and reaches a tarmac road at High Wooley Farm.
This is an old farmhouse as the steep sloping roof and pantiles testify. We now head west on the road to rejoin the Deerness Valley Railway path which is now followed down to the Deernesss Valley at Ivesley Cottages with its nearby pub. This section was to access coal from the two collieries at Stanley; namely the Stanley Drift and the Wooley.
The Deerness railway was opened in 1858 to transport coal and coke from the valley. In 1877 it started taking passengers and this continued up to1951. Photos of the station can be seen on the Disused Stations website. Finally in 1964 the line closed to all traffic. This area, although rural now had a considerable amount of industry and still retains an active community spirit. The course of the railway, although not made into a railway walk, is open for use to the west and we head west passing Hedleyhill Terrace on the other side of the road. At the end of this terrace it is necessary to leave the course of the old railway which has partly disappeared and take to the quiet road which has a good path alongside it.
At the end of a small terrace of houses (there is also one on the other side) called Rose Terrace, after about half a mile, take the track down the side of the last house to pick up the newly created path through Staley Wood alongside the river. This is an interesting path and passes the site of some beehive coke ovens. The coal hereabouts made good coke. This whole area up to East Hedleyhope has seen some really good restoration and conservation work funded from a variety of sources such as the Mineral Valleys Project as well as the National Lottery. The hay meadow on your right is part of this reserve and aims to have a flower meadow with grass cutting being stopped until all the flowers have seeded. The RSPB have added funds as part of their efforts in reversing the decline of woodland birds and there was further assistance from the Forestry Commission.
East Hedleyhope had a pit from the 1860s until 1959 and employed 500 men who produced 500 tons per day of good quality coking coal. The village school was opened in 1877 and after the closure of the colliery several rows of houses were demolished. I think this is the site of the large open area (now playing fields) and the remaining rows give an idea what the village looked like in its heyday. It is hoped in the future to restore some of the beehive ovens in the woods. It is interesting to note that this site was proposed as a Durham County Council Picnic Site in the 1970s but it never materialised. However, thanks to the great efforts of the local community who manage the site we now have an attractive and useful nature reserve.
Where the road turns sharp to the north, continue past the side of the house in front of you and follow the footpath upriver on the north side. This gradually leaves the river and after passsing through woodland goes through fields to Low West House. We have always seen roe deer when in this vicinity and good birdlife. Much of the land has been subject to open cast mining but has now settled down and as mentioned earlier old moorland is visible. You now follow the access road to the farm climbing steadily for a distance of just under two miles to reach Tow Law.
Tow Law was virtually non existant in 1841 (when there was only one building) but by 1851 there were 2000 inhabitants and this increased to its peak in 1881 when the population was 5000. This was almost entirely due to the efforts of Charles Attwood the Weardale ironmaster. The site of his house in Whickham is passed on the Sanctuary Way Stage 1 walk. At its peak Tow Law had five blast furnaces, two coke works and a foundry which made the cannon balls for The Battle of Inkerman, hence that name as part of Tow Law where the partly restored coke ovens can be found. In 1881 the iron and steel works were moved to Tudhoe and from then onwards the township lost its heart and population.
On reaching the A68 turn right past Dans Castle (noting the date above the door) towards Corbridge, cross the road and turn left at the end of the cemetery. Go around the back of the cemetery and then turn south-west on a clear path behind a circle of houses to a tarmac lane. Cross straight over and in a dip beside a pipe make upwards to the interesting house on your right to pick up the footpath which goes south-west alongside a newly planted hedge to the B6297. There is a wide verge here and the road is taken east to the wood and footpath sign at GR 113386. This foothpath follows the Heatherley Burn but has been a little damaged due to horse riders although it is marked on the OS map as a foothpath. You continue above the burn and the old quarry to arrive at a lane leading down to a large cowshed and this lane is taken left to the east to the Thornley Roadm which is then followed down to Thornley village. This goes back many years and the Hall in the centre dates from 1070, although the current one is only from the 18th Century, being built on the site of the old Hall. The crocuses here are very good in early spring whilst the church is also pleasant.
We return up the hill to the Old Chapel cottage where we turn east along the top of the village and to the right of the last house to pick up the foothpath, not clear on the ground, and walk across two fields to the stile into Thornley Beck Woods. This is a lovely spot where the landowner has given the public access. In this wood we follow the Right of Way down the steps, over the bridge and up the other side and continue ahead to Helme Park Hotel emerging on to the old A68 which used to pass the front door. Turn left and cross the new A68 to take the foothpath opposite. Immediately in front of you is a very wet area which is bypassed to the right and as soon as you pass the water turn left to the stile. This land has been open cast mined and the path is fenced to segregate it from livestock and the wood on your left.
The path heads north-east with horse riding gallops and circuits to the right to emerge at a broad ash track. Turn right to Park Wall and pass through the courtyard to the left to take the access road south-east. At the t-junction turn left along the tarmac road which soon changes to ash and follow this to Craig Lea Road where we turn left. After half a mile we reach Old White Leas Cottage and a closed pub called the Dun Cow. This was a very old nostalgic pub which got rave reviews from the Northern Echo journalist Mike Amos but is now sadly no more. It was known locally as “The Cows Tail”.
We turn right south-east along the bridleway to Roddymoor just past the pub. The original Stockton and Darlington Railway offshoot to Consett climbed the hill near here up to Tow Law and then joined the Stanhope Railway to reach Consett going over Hownes Gill. Go straight through the council estate at Roddymoor and up the hill to Billy Row. At the village green turn left, passing The Green pub and then an interesting terrace of houses, to come out at the Deerness Railway walk which is followed back up the hill to the car park. The snag with starting at the top of the hill on a circular walk is that there is always a climb at the end but doing this walk anti-clockwise is the better alternative