Medomsley Circular on New Paths
Filed under: County Durham BorderDistance: 10 Miles
Start: Ebchester Picnic Park on the Derwent Walk
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer 307 – Consett and Derwent Reservoir
This walk starts at Ebchester Picnic Park on the Derwent Walk, primarily because of the good quality parking here although those doing the walk with a small number of people can start at Medomsley. The advantage of an Ebchester start is that it is an easy finish with great views ahead of you and because of a slight difference of route omits a little road walking.
Plenty has been written about the Derwent Walk on other walk descriptions but suffice to say that the line opened in 1867 and was closed by British Rail in 1962. Ebchester Station itself closed on 21/9/1953. The line had reached its peak in 1914 when it carried half a million passengers annually but the combination of improved roads and the fact that the line had to gain considerable height to reach Consett meant that the line left the valley bottom and much of the local population. The Derwent Walk pub at the entrance to the start was originally the Station Hotel and serves good ale and more than acceptable food.
We start by walking up the line southwards passing under the roadbridge of A691 which for much of its route follows the Roman road Dere Street. Further details on this and the Dere Street Trail can be found on the information board at the start. After about 400 yards the path crosses Whinny Lane which is a narrow very minor road probably named after Whin bushes growing in the area. This climbs steeply to reach the A691. Here turn left downhill ignoring the clear footpath at Broomhill Farm (another name for Whin) and continue down for a short distance where a waymarked footpath leaves the road on your right and climbs up to Broomhill Farm. Head west if front of the buildings to a stile which is crossed and follow the path ahead. To your left nearby is the back of the Derwent Walk Inn. The year 2010 saw the re-emergence of a path on the correct route which had been lost for over 15 years as people had taken an easier route not on the right of way. This was reported in detail in the May issue of the Durham Voluntary Countryside Ranger Service newsletter under the Parish Paths Project (known as P3 for short) whose objectives are to improve and promote public rights of way through local involvement. This is a partnership betwen the Parish Council and Durham County Council and in some cases a Town Council. When some clearance work was proceeding by Colin Bell (a Medomsley resident) and Nick Hall (a DCC Area Rights of Way Officer) they discovered the correct route and a long flight of steps. After much work from the DCC Volunteer Rangers (DCVRS) the steps were cleared and brought back to standard. The route is now waymarked as part of the Medomsley Parish Paths Walks and an illustrated leaflet has been produced which gives routes on all the paths.
The footpath turns to the right and at a waymark from the Medomsley project it turns half left going gradually downhil using the improved steps. The footpath then turns east to the right to descend to the stream which is crossed . After a short climb up you come to another footpath near a stile into a field. Ignore this stile and take the good clear footpath to the west which recrosses the stream and comes down to the Derwent Walk. The oak woods here are very attractive and support a good bird population. Until recently they were red squirrels to be seen but I have seen none for several years. Keep an eye and ear open for jays. You can take the path up the embankment to the line but I prefer to go under the line through the arch and take the footpath to the north along the bottom of the embankment.
The track bed here is descending quickly and you soon pick the Derwent Walk up at a crossroads of a path linking Medomsley and Ebchester. Turn left towards Ebchester which is soon reached arriving near the church of St Ebba. Much of this was built using stone from the fort of Vindomara. The church is possibly pre 1066 but is probably early Norman, being substantially restored in 1878. It has leper windows which allowed those inflicted to participate in the service without coming into contact with the congregation. Ebba was the daughter of Aethelfrith who was the first king of Northumbria. The church organ was made by Harrisons of Durham who made organs for many famous cathedrals and churches and whose original production site is passed on the Sanctuary Way Stage 4. They now operate from Langley Park near Durham. After the demise of the Romans the area became dense forest rising from the River Derwent and the wood walked through earlier will go back to those times. Later, in the time of Bishop Pudsey, it was known as the place of the Anchorites who were hermits. Ebchester is different from the other forts on Dere Street in that the modern settlement is built over the fort (compared to Corbridge and Lanchester where the fort is outside the village) but you can still see part of the fort in the back garden of a house. This is not marked up but if you turn right on the road leading past the church to the main road and go along a tarmac lane you will be able to see it without any inconvenience.
You now descend to the main road which is crossed and slightly to the right go onto an open space with an information board on the Roman heritage and seats. Walk through this and take the footpath down some new steps to reach a lane. This footpath has been substantially improved of late. By turning right down the lane you soon reach the River Derwent and the footbridge over the river. This replaced stepping stones which were difficult in times of high rainfall. The old stepping stones can be seen near the north bank at the far side of the bridge. We are now at the start of a new footpath which was created in 2010. This footpath was confirmed as a public right of way in 2006 following a claim from a Mr Marston who lives in Blackhall Mill using Section 31 of the Highways Act of 1980. This states “where a way other than a way of such a character that use of it could not give rise at common law to any presumption of dedication, has been actually enjoyed by the public, as of right and without interruption, for a period of 20 years, the way is deemed to have been dedicated as a highway unless there is sufficient evidence that the landowner demonstrated a lack of any intention during this period to dedicate the route. The 20 year period applies retrospectively from the date at which the right of the public to use the way was brought into question”. Mr Marston had support from locals who confirmed this and the path was made into a right of way in 2010 by the Inspector from DEFRA. It is indeed an important path as it goes alongside the river which is particularly attractive hereabouts. The River Derwent is the best otter river in the north of England and also has the highest number of breeding dippers. This is measured by the numbers over a specific distance. Kingfishers may also be seen and there is the added bonus of red kites which breed nearby.
The footpath follows the river down to Blackhall Mill utilising the improved gates and towards Blackhall Mill joins up with an existing footpath to reach the village. Ignore the first footbridge and cross by the roadbridge and take the footpath immediately on your left which leads to Derwentcote Farm. Until recently this footpath led directly to the historical site of the Derwentcote Furnace but a landslide on the path at the side of the farm has made the route inaccessible. It appears to me that the recent construction on the farm may have contributed to this but hopefully the matter can be resolved. It is now necessary to continue straight ahead at the top of the lane over the stile and pass by a modern house to reach the A694. Those wishing to visit the furnace need to walk along the main road and take the access lane to it about half a mile along the road. We continue straight ahead over the road and head part right to the corner and follow the path up the side of a wood which climbs quite steeply to White Byerside where it joins the Derwent Walk. It is probably best to keep a short distance from the fence on the last bit up to the line as it is wet. You can reach Cut Throat Lane ahead by following the farm access road but it is better to walk down the Derwent Way for about 300 yards where a footpath leading from the Derwentcote Car Park crosses the route. Turn right over one field to reach Cut Throat Lane and then head north for about 400 yards to a tight bend in the road to the left where you take the footpath on the right to Longclose Bank. Part of this is wet (due to a spring which is marked on the OS map) but easily passable. Cross over and follow the access road to Southfield Farm. Some of the woods on your left have permissive access from the Hamsterley Hall Estate and are marked up.
The paths at Southfield Farm can be a bit confusing. On this walk turn right at the last building on your right, past the end of a barn and at the first gate, where there is a stile, turn left alongside a field edge. Do not cross the stile. The way ahead (not used today) goes directly to Medomsley and is used on another Border Walks walk starting at Lintz. At the end of the field there is a clear way into the wood and the path soon descends into the tight valley of the South Burn. The woods on your left belong to the Woodland Trust and are part of Dipton Woods. The Woodland Trust have made some important acquisitions to their Dipton Woods site including land near to the Derwent Walk where they created Ajax Woods, also visited on the Lintz walk. The wood on your right belongs to, I believe, the Forestry Commission.
Cross the burn and head right uphill climbing above the Pont Burn to reach a track. Immediately ahead is a stile which leads to a large field. There is no path on the ground but head south-west and towards the far corner go through a gate which is equidistant from the two woods on your right and left. Do not go through the gap in the hedge further to the right. After walking along the side of one field you reach a clear track which is waymarked and goes along to Bradley Hall. On passing the buildings there is a splitting of tracks. The one on the left is the access road. Take the track on the right and after a short distance where the track turns to the right pick out the stile on your right. Cross over and follow the footpath alongside the fence for three fields and then head up over scrub to arrive at Medomsley which was formerly a mining village. Medomsley Colliery Busty Pit was sunk in 1839 on the west side of the village and Derwent Colliery Hunter Pit on the east side (where you have just crossed) was sunk in 1856. At their peak they employed just under 2000 men and boys. The dangers of mining are shown by the numbers killed over their lifetime with 55 losing their lives at Medomsley and 47 at Derwent. The latter closed in 1964 when it only employed 282 people and this was followed eight years later when Medomsley Closed with the loss of 155 jobs. This information was taken from the Walks leaflet that the parish has produced.
Find the War Memorial at the west end of the village near the junction of the B6308 and B6310 and take the footpath here to the west which is fenced off from the fields to come down to a housing estate called the Dene. Go through this estate by taking the street on your left to the bottom of the estate where a footpath goes past an under used football pitch and arrives at the A691 (Dere Street) at Broomhill Farm. Resist the temptation to walk down this busy road and take the path back up to Whinny Lane, used earlier in the walk, which is now walked thankfully downhill. The views ahead, particularly at sunset, are really good looking over towards the Stanhope and Blanchland moors. On reaching the Derwent Walk it is very pleasant to stroll down back to the start and a enjoy a well-deserved drink in the Derwent Walk pub.
“We start by walking up the line southwards passing under the roadbridge of A691 which for much of its route follows the Roman road Dere Street.” – Do you mean B6309 for this stretch?