Bill's Walks

Round and About Bowburn

Filed under: Other

Distance: 12.5 miles  which can be reduced to 11.5 miles by taking short cut through High Croxdale

Start: Bowburn Village

Click to view start position on Google Maps

Map: OS Explorer 305 – Bishop Auckland

Bowburn on its own is an average County Durham village situated on the A177 close to Interchange 61 on the A1M. It is sat on what was the Durham coalfield but of more importance is the fact that above the coal measures are the big deposits of magnesium carbonate known as dolomitic limestone. This band of magnesium limestone stretches from South Shields (South Tyneside) where it is evident on the cliff face along the coast immediately south of the River Tyne and was quarried there at Marsden all the way to the Nottingham area. Much of the grassland of the magnesium limestone has disappeared and now only scattered remnants remain. The grassland that we pass today is rare, being found nowhere else in the world. Much of the grassland has, over recent years, been given protection through various means and is now conserved. In addition several areas such as worked-out quarries have been recovered to provide habitat to some of the rare flora that is found on this grassland such as Quaking Grass, Blue Moor Grass, Small Scabious, Fragrant Orchid and Harebell.

Several of the paths used on this walk are encountered on previous walks such as “Round the East Durham Reserves” and “Shincliffe and Tursdale Beck” which are to the east and west of Bowburn respectively but this is the first walk where we have joined them up. Further information on the importance of magnesium limestone can be found on the route descriptions of these walks but suffice to say that of the 307 hectares of magnesium limestone in the area no less than 279 hectares are protected as SSSIs.

We start at the Community Centre at Bowburn where a path behind the Library leads past some well tended allotments on your left and a new childrens park to reach a minor road running parallel to the A1M. This is followed north and the A1M crossed next to Cassop Grange. On crossing this bridge take the access track towards Heugh Hall Farm. You soon cross another major road, which if your map is not up to date, will not be shown. This is the Bowburn Bypass. Here you turn down under the bridge and take the broad track north alongside the road. Where the track terminates cross the road with great care and continue northwards to a point just before Cassop Moor. On the opposite side of the road is a footpath which is taken and this soon crosses a minor road and continues east to another minor road at Chapman Beck. The path then continues over the road towards Cassop Vale. After about 400 yards another path joins from your left which is used on the Round the Reserves walk.

You are now in Cassop Vale which is a fine area for birds. This was the site of Cassop Vale Colliery known as the Vale Pit and was the site of Cassop’s second coal mine sunk in 1840 and closed in 1868. The only evidence of this are the spoil tips which have been colonised by hawthorn and gorse. We often see fieldfare and redwing here in the winter feasting on the berries. After a further quarter of a mile you cross a bridleway which is on a north south axis. This comes down from Old Cassop. Cross this bridleway and continue east to reach Cassop Bogs which is an SSSI. The pond, which was formed by mining subsidence, can contain several common species of duck such as mallard, coot, teal and waterhen although I have yet to see water rail which are sometimes seen here. This was compensated for when a goshawk was seen here some years ago. The village ahead up the hill is Cassop (formerly New Cassop). The area of the bogs was the site of Cassop Colliery which operated from 1836 until 1878.

Do not go up to Cassop but head sharp right to head west through Big Wood which is a National Nature Reserve and is Ancient Woodland (ie. it was in existence prior to 1600). Big Wood is best in late spring when there is a good display of bluebells. Continuing west a short climb brings you out on to a road near to the Heather Lad Inn which has never changed in my lifetime. This pub is quite nostalgic for me as in the late 1950s my cycling club (Newcastle and Gateshead Clarion) held their hill climbing competitions on nearby Quarrington Hill. The pub has also featured on some films from Amber Films.

Walking towards Quarrington Hill you soon reach St Paul’s Churchyard on your right. This is a little different from most churchyards as it is managed for wildlife and over 70 species of wildflowers and grasses grow among the graves. This illustrates what this area would have looked like before the the onset of modern farming. St Paul’s was built in 1868 closed in 1991 before being demolished in 1993. There is an Information Board in the churchyard and this is a good place for lunch with distant views to the west over to West Durham and the Pennines. Beacon Hill with the mast on top to the east was a beacon in the Napoleonic Wars.

Here there is a choice or routes as you can maintain your height along the top of Cold Knuckles Quarry or preferably take the lower route through Crowtrees Local Nature Reserve managed by DCC. The old quarry face to the north is interesting and again this is a good area for birds with several species of finches to be seen as well as birds of prey with buzzards about and the occasional owl. The Information Board has details of the mining industry as here there were two mines. Heugh Hall Colliery near to Old Quarrington opened in 1840 and closed in 1897. This was once owned by William Hedley of Puffing Billy fame while Crowtrees Colliery in the valley was sunk in 1820 and also closed in the 1890s. Continue down to Coxhoe on good tracks to arrive on the A177 at GR 314369 near to the R of Roman Road on the map. This whole area has a lengthy story to tell on the early development of railways which, along with much more on this subject, can be read in the excellent book “Lost Railways of Durham and Teeside” by Robin Jones published by Countryside Books of Newbury. Cross the A177 and go through a small housing estate to reach an open area with football pitches etc.and go north-west along the back of the houses to cross the A1M and reach the A688 in a very short distance. Here take the path west past the sewage works and ignore the ‘footpath closed’ sign as there is no obstruction. You then cross the old Leamside Line which was originally the main line north to Newcastle and continue west . It is worth the diversion to Tursdale House which is historic. The farmhouse was formerly a coaching inn and the small building opposite was a blacksmith’s shop. Here you are on Strawberry Lane which will be joined later in the walk amd this was a major road going to Durham in the 17th Century.

Walk down the hill to the Tursdale Beck and Hett Mill. An option is to follow Tursdale Beck but the other route is also of interest. Cross the railway line which carries a lot of traffic as it is the main line and take a path immediately on your right which crosses four fields to come into Hett Village. This is one of the Durham villages with a big village green. There are several others nearby notably Tudhoe and Shadforth. Take the Sunderland Bridge road for a short distance and turn right descending through a field with fine views to the north and recross the railway by a footbridge. Follow the path down to cross Tursdale Beck again and head alongside a wood and past small ponds in the Croxdale Estate northwards. On reaching the bridleway linking Croxdale Hall to High Croxdale there is a short cut back to Bowburn which goes straight east past High Croxdale and saves a mile. For an slightly longer walk (and an easy one too) head north with a very small narrow wood on your right (almost a hedge) to reach the Weardale Way at GR 277381 in the north-west corner of the field. Here turn right and pass Croxdale Wood House and High Butterby Farm. At this farm the Weardale Way descends down a muddy track but do not take it. Continue on the broad track by turning right at the farm and after about 400 yards you arrive at Strawberry Lane. Head south on a good path passing by Pigeon Plantation to arrive at a wood where you meet the path from High Croxdale and it is then a lovely path that you now take winding through the trees to the east. After just under half a mile you cross the old Leamside railway line again and continue on a broad track east with a wood on your right to arrive back in Bowburn directly opposite the Community Centre where you started.

Much of the information given on this walk was taken from the DCC booklet “Of Wooded Vales and Limestone Hills” which l recommend you acquire, whilst much additional information can be got from the Limestone Landscapes Project c/o DCC County Hall DH15UQ. Thanks also to Sheila Pinkney of the DVCRS who suggested the walk.