Bill's Walks

Hamsterley and Hamsterley Forest

Filed under: Other

Distance: 12 miles

Start: Hamsterley Village

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Map: OS Explorer 305 – Bishop Auckland and OS Explorer 31 – Teesdale and Weardale

Strangers to County Durham may not be aware that there are two villages called Hamsterley. One is in the Derwent Valley, south-west of Gateshead, in a good walking area surrounded by woodland and the other (which is this walk) is in mid Weardale on a shelf above the river. The main street in Hamsterley is over half a mile long so there are plenty of places to park cars.

We leave the village towards its eastern end and head downhill on the minor road heading south called Daniel Lane for a short distance to the junction of the two routes from the main road. There is a footpath sign (set back on your left) and this route is taken, passing in front of Hollin Hill which shows signs of being a fair age and then continue east crossing a series of narrow fields. After three such crossings is an old well off-route called Lady Well which is now in disrepair. The path continues east to arrive at a church and the village graveyard, which is entered. The route continues leaving the graveyard at the south-east corner and crosses a large field, gradually descending down to a wood and a stile onto the road. Here the road is taken, continuing downhill for 200 yards to a minor crossroads where we turn left to Lane House. The good track you are on serves as an access road to the next farm called Edge Knoll, which you pass on your right and then continue on to Park House. The path is well marked as you turn right here on a pretty path through woodland to descend to the Bedburn Beck.

This area is very attractive with many fine trees and a lot of birdlife. Note that you do not cross the beck but walk on the right bank to then pick up the original track you were on. This diversion looks like a measure to prevent access for unwanted wheeled vehicles but in any case the route taken is much superior. You then walk alongside a wood with Bedburn Beck flowing just behind the wood to a corner. Do not take the footpath on your right. Instead, turn left for a short distance up the side of the field to cross a small stream by a bridge onto a lane next to Snape Gate. There can be some difficulty in finding the route here but everything is marked up, including places which are not rights of way. Pass in front of the house and round to the left. Do not go down towards the Bedburn Beck. The footpath to Howlea Bridge which we want is along the south side of two fields. Alternatively l doubt if there would be any objection to using the access road which joins the Wolsingham road where you can then turn right and walk downhill to the bridge. Turn left into the Caravan Park before the bridge and continue westwards to the end of the site, which is left on a clear track to Bedburn Old Hall. Here, you pass through the stables area and come to another Wolsingham road and a small car park situated to the north of the bridge. You now turn left here heading west to pass by a house and follow the Bedburn Beck upstream. This river has both kingfishers and dippers and both are seen regularly. The building above you is Bedburn Hall.

After about half a mile the track crosses a small bridge into a meadow and heads for a building which is part of the Bedburn Forest set up. You are now at one of the main car parks for Bedburn Forest which is much used for outdoor activities, notably mountain biking and indeed national events are held here. Our next destination is The Grove, which is another car park, and you follow the red or blue routes on good tracks through the woods which are quite open keeping to the south of the beck. There are good views of the beck underneath you and the footpath then descends to run alongside the beck to reach the road through the forest owned by the Forestry Commission. This is a toll road for visitors. Head west upstream to The Grove and continue past it for a short distance on the tarmac to a road bridge over Bedburn Beck, which is crossed for a steep climb up for about 100 yards, where the permissive track up Mayland Bank is taken on your right. This cuts across the gradient and is much used by cyclists.

At a crossing of paths, where there is a small kiosk, continue straight ahead to eventually reach the road which runs along the southern edge of Bedburn Forest. Cross the road and take the footpath to Mayland Lea just to the right. Pass to the front of the farm and head over the fields and past the northern edge of Linburn Wood to a minor road. Turn right for a short distance and then continue east past West Mayland and then Mayland Hall. This is all sheep country and this farm won the prize for the best fleece at the 2011 Yorkshire Show. The route continues east to East Mayland where it is necessary to turn into the farmyard to pick up the footpath. The one straight ahead at the farm entrance is the wrong one, heading south at the end of the field ahead. All of this land has been subject to open cast work hence the excellent walls passed on the way to Rackwood Hill and it now appears that the footpath on line 30 is on the south side of the fence and not on the north side. Both of the Rackwood farms are bypassed to the north on clearly marked routes which keep you out of the farmyard. Emerging onto the road from the latter, ignore the main road back into Hamsterley and take the minor road south. After two fields on your left cross the waymarked stile and head north-east over grass fields, where all the stiles have recently been renewed. Take care not to go to Numbers Farm and continue east and drop down at the end of the fields over a high stone stile to a spring and overgrown area which is exited by a tall stile to arrive back in Hamsterley.

As stated at the start of this walk, Hamsterley is a long village which appears to still maintain the things valued in a village such as a pub, village hall and more than one church, plus a large village green. Long may it remain the same! The excellent condition of the gates and the stiles as well as the waymarking is due to the combined efforts of the Parish Council and the Rights of Way team at Durham County Council under the Parish Paths Partnership. What a good scheme this is not only for visitors but also for the locals.