Bill's Walks

Space and Solitude in Upper Geltsdale

Filed under: Other

Approx. Distance: 16 miles

Start: Talkin Village, south of Brampton (GR 549675)

Click to view start position on Google Maps

Map : OL 43 – Hadrian’s Wall and OL 5 – The English Lakes: North Eastern Area

For many people the name Geltsdale conjures up the fact that the area is in fact a major RSPB Reserve. The Visitor Centre is at Tindale Tarn which is to the south-east of Hallbankgate and round the corner from Geltsdale. Near to the centre they are encouraging black grouse but also on this reserve (and possibly where we are walking on this route) it is possible to see hen harriers, as at least one pair are resident and protected here. There is also a protected pair close to the Pennine Way near Bellingham, as well as several in the Forest of Bowland. If you see a white largish gull in the air and on closer examination see that it is a bird of prey then most likely it is a hen harrier. Sadly they are persecuted by gamekeepers but fortunately in my part of France that is not the case and indeed a pair nest on arable land not far from where we stay.

Today’s walk starts in the village of Talkin which is to the south of Talkin Tarn and can be a good spot for birds in the winter. Leave the village by the road to the south-east, passing the pub on your right and at the first junction take the road on the right to Talkin Head Farm. Note the attractive gardens passed en route. After the farm, which has holiday cottages, the tarmac surface gives way to a good stone surface and gradually ascends to Holme Gill after about half a mile. Here you can take a riverside bridleway through Low Hynham and High Hynham but on this occasion we keep on the main track which has good views down into the Gelt valley. After about one and a half miles, where the path levels out, there is a junction where you turn right passing an old barn and then The Green which is a lonely habitation.

The path here changes to turf and staying on a contour of 300 metres curls round to arrive at two deserted shepherds houses called Gairs, complete with a rhododendron in the garden! The hill in front is Cold Fell and at Gairs we turn down to cross How Gill and pick up the very clear and well surfaced footpath contouring the fell and head south. There are fine views across the Gelt to Geltsdale Farm and after a further one and a half miles you descend to Old Water at GR587535. The sheepfold on the right (just off the track at the start of the descent) can give shelter on a rough day. You cross this beck by an excellent footbridge, maintained by the Water Board, who collect the water flowing from these fells at Castle Carrock reservoir which will be passed later. After crossing the bridge those wanting a shorter walk can turn right (north-west) to reach Geltsdale Farm and follow their access road to Castle Carrock. For the full walk however, we continue south on the clear track and in less than two miles reach the River Gelt. Here there is currently a problem as the footbridge was washed away in recent floods and has not been replaced. There has also been a landslide just up from the crossing and after heavy rain there will be real problems here. Brian, Clive and myself walked downriver for 200 yds where the river spreads out and plodged across. The only other way to cross would be to continue on the east side of the Gelt around the landslide then follow Eller Beck upwards to where it can be crossed. After we crossed the river, and with surprisingly dry feet as our gaiters had done their job, there is a short distance where the path disappears, but later on this changes to a fine track put in for the shooting fraternity.

On reaching the summit there is a lovely landscape laid out in front of you – the Eden Valley with the mountains of the northern Lakes behind. A steep descent brings you into one of the many Newbiggins found in the north of England. You can miss the village out by using the bridleway from Townhead to Foulsike Wood, but after the moors Newbiggin makes a pleasant change. There is a pub here (Blue Bell Inn) though l do not think it opens through the day, but you never know your luck!

On the main road (still very quiet) you walk north towards Cumrew and at the entrance to Cumrew Farm, about half a mile after Newbiggin, look for the well maintained footpath that goes to Cumrew Church. Here there are seats and a chance for a rest. It is a pleasant stroll through the village and where the street turns left to join the Castle Carrock road head straight on along the access road to Turnberry House. After a little less than a mile, where the road turns right to Thorngerry, go through the gate onto firm ground into a field. There is no waymark here but the way ahead is clear to Albyfield. At the north end of the farmyard close to the house take the gate in front and after crossing one field you arrive at Brackenthwaite and Manor House. Continuing north after three fields you will arrive on tarmac just out of Roughet Hill where we turn left down the hill to soon arrive at the south end of Castle Carrock reservoir. The eastern side has no traffic and is followed into Castle Carrock where again there are refreshments available.

In order to avoid roadwalking go west at the main road and where this road turns south (at the end of a line of white houses) take the bridleway north to the ford and bridge at GR 539562. Return to the road, where it crosses the Gelt which rushes through a chasm underneath the bridge then head north up the road for about 100 yards until you reach the end of a wood and take the footpath to Hill House. The farmer here is a fellow walker and was setting off on the week after our visit to do the Tour of Mont Blanc! After leaving the farmyard and continue in a north-east direction keep to the left of the field to the north-east corner where a gate gives access to another field. Instead of taking the footpath to the road, continue straight ahead in the same direction and after less than 10 minutes you will be in the yard of The Blacksmith Arms where a welcome pint of good ale and good food is available. We felt we had earned it! This is a longish walk with much variation and is ideal at all times especially if you want a bit peace.