Bill's Walks

Sanctuary Way Stage 4 – Witton Gilbert to Durham Cathedral

Filed under: Sanctuary Way

Distance – 12.5 miles

Start – Road leading to St Michael anbd All Angels Church in Witton Gilbert. GR NZ 235453

OS Map – Explorer 308 / Durham & Sunderland

The Sanctuary Way is a walk devised by Bill Gallon from the knocker of the door of the church in the village of Whickham to the Sanctuary Knocker of Durham Cathedral. It is done as a series of 4 circular walks of approximately 12 miles each, or can be done as a continuous walk of approximately 22 miles.

The Sanctuary Knocker is on the north door of Durham Cathedral which was a place of sanctuary. Fugitives from the law wishing to claim protection used the knocker to attract attention of the two watchmen who were in a chamber over the door. Then admitted they were given sanctuary for 37 days during which time they had to choose between trial or exile. If the latter, they were escorted to a port, normally Hartlepool, wearing a St Cuthbert’s badge stitched to their shoulder and they also carried a wooden cross. Once at the port they had to embark on the next ship leaving the country regardless of its destination.

The start of the stage is at St Michaels Church Witton Gilbert. The village has a long history going back to Saxon days when it was known as Witun (White town). Following the Norman invasion in 1066 the land became Norman owned under Gilbert de la Ley. He was a benefactor to the area and some of his charters are preserved in Durham library. Some time later the land came under the ownership of Gilbert de la Latone who followed the example set by the first Gilbert and was the Gilbert thought to have given his name to the village.

Gilbert de la Ley lived at Witton from 1120 — 1180 and as well as funding the rebuilding of Kepier Hospital, he also gave land to the monks at Durham Cathedral for a retreat which was called Beaurepaire. During the walk, over the River Browney, you turn left to follow the farm road to Bear Park farm. Bear Park is an anglicization of Beaurepaire. It is well worth the short steep climb up the bank to the retreat, which has seen substantial improvement recently.

St Michaels Church in Witton Gilbert was built around 1170 and retains Norman features. The chancel arch is similar to the Galilee Chapel at Durham and there are two Norman windows in the South wall. The tower was used as a watchtower and the bells were rung if danger threatened. There are slits in the tower from where arrows could be fired. The bells bear the inscription ‘Christopher Hodgson made me 1693’. The oldest grave is 20 years earlier 1673.

Next door to the church is a farm which incorporates Witton Hall although much has been altered. At one time it was a leper hospital and housed eight lepers. The hospital was known as St Mary Magdalene and was in a similar fashion to Sherburn. The lepers, for the time, were well looked after. They each received a bushel of wheat every three weeks, got 4/- at Christmas (20p) which was equivalent to about 35 days work. They were also given 200 red herrings, coal and oxen as well as having their own chapel south of the church. Traces of this could be seen quite recently.

The Route

The walk follows the Dene Burn to its confluence with the River Browney down its east bank to Bearpark (GR 243439) and for the first half can be wet underfoot. Bearpark was sacked several times by the Scots, particula in 1315 following Bannockburn an also in 1346 before the battle of Nevilles Cross. Full details can be found on www.wittongilbert.com

On reaching the bridge you turn left to follow the farm road to Bearpark Farm. Bearpark is an anglicization of Beaurepaire which was a retreat for the monks at Durham Cathedral and is well worth the short steep climb up to the bank to look at the remains. The route follows the bridleway past Bearpark Hall Farm and Stotgate Farm which has considerable antiquity. It is believed that the Scots killed at the battle were buried near here but the exact location has never been found. At Moorley Banks (GR 251434) where the track turns to the right slightly downhill, turn east along Club Lane to the A167. Proceed south for a short distance (200m) to the edge of the school and cross to the east side. Follow the path round the perimeter of the school field and down into Flass Vale. There are several routes through Flass Vale but all emerge at Waddington Street.

Flass Vale is very important as it is an excellent oak wood. In Victorian times it held a formal garden and a curling pond. There are also beech and holly in this wood and it is possible to see jays, great spotted woodpeckers and tawny owls as well as all the normal garden birds. Turn south (right) along the east side of Flass Vale along a narrow path with terraced streets on your left. The path climbs stairs past the site of one of the original wells before water was supplied by pipes. You then come to the Durham Miners Hall. The first Miners Hall was on North Road in 1874 but moved to this site in 1915. The statues are of McDonald, Patterson, Crawford (who initialled the Miners’ Gala in 1874) and Forman. They were previously on North Road and after the move stayed there above the original hall which had convened to a cinema.

Proceed up Redhills and pass through a tunnel under the railway to Mistletoe Road and down to Hawthorn Terrace. The building on the far side was formerly the business of Harrison and Harrison. Harrison and Harrison were founded in 1861 in Rochdale before moving to Durham in 1872. They made the organs at Kings College Cambridge, Westminster Abbey and the Royal Festival Hall as well as carrying out rebuilds on 19 cathedral organs in the UK. They moved a few years ago to Meadowfield near Durham and are world famous.

Now head south (right) up Hawthorn Tecrace to May Street. Note the bottom house which shows that these houses were built in 1887 which was the Jubilee year and there is a bust of Victoria above the house. At the top of the street turn left to the next street and proceed uphill to the top, passing Farnley Tower on your right.

At Crossgate turn right towards the A167. On the right is the Neville’s Cross, erected by Ralph Neville to commemorate his victory. A full tour of this site is one of the other guided walks run by Durham County Council. Turn around and retrace your steps and staying on the north side follow a path down towards the city with the hedge on your right. After 100m, follow the steps down to the road and cross to Blind Lane. Take the steps up to Beech Crescent. The house at the bottom was the house of Peter Lee, although this is not indicated on the house. Peter Lee (1864 — 1935) rose from humble beginnings to be elected to Durham County Council which was the first Labour council in England. He subsequently became Chairman of the Council, was a lay preacher and was Secretary of the Durham Miners Association. He is perpetuated in having his name given to the new town of Peterlee. megafafa

The route continues through the allotments, after passing some modern housing with fine views of the Cathedral, and down to Prebends Bridge (built 1772 – 1777) and up to Durham Cathedral to the Sanctuary Knocker. Go through the North Bailey and to South Bailey and back to Prebends Bridge. Turn left and then cross the road on the marked footpath. Continue west on the footpath to the University of Durham Observatory. The Observatory was established in 1839 by WM Wharton and with the renowned Anthony Salvin as Architect. It housed a superb library which was transferred to the University library in 1953. During its existence it has performed many observations which have led to further knowledge of the universe.

Follow the footpath through the new Barratt development, passing at GR NZ256 416, the site of the former college to emerge onto the A167. Cross to go through to the A690 via Lowe Barn Estate. This area was the site of a Roman road now lost. On reaching the A690 cross with care and go behind a terrace of houses to a back lane with allotments on your left. Go uphill to GR 261418 where you turn left through the allotments for a short distance and then down a field to cross the River Browney by a footbridge to reach Relly Mill which is a small settlement of considerable age. Follow the west bank of the River Browney to the bridge and turn left (south) past Baxter Wood to the Lanchester Railway walk. This Railway was opened to carry from Langley Park and serve the valley. It was opened in 1862 and closed 1965. In its passage up the Browney Valley, it goes through attractive countryside. The area has a substantial number of threatened skylarks, some peewit (becoming scarce) and sand martins.

The railway walk is is now followed back to the start leaving the line at GR NZ 233445 to cross a footbridge. The path leads past the sewage works to the church at Witton Gilbert.