Bill's Walks

Sanctuary Way Stage 3 – Witton Gilbert to Wardles Bridge

Filed under: Sanctuary Way

Distance: 12 miles

Start: Wardles Bridge

Click to view start position on Google Maps

Witton Gilbert is an old settlement going back to Saxon times when it was known as Witton (white town). Following the Norman invasion, the land hereabouts became Norman owned under Gilbert de la Ley who lived here from1120 to 1180. He was a great benefactor to the area and some of his charters are preserved in Durham Library. He funded the rebuilding of Kepier Hospital and gave land to the Monks of Durham Cathedral for a retreat which was called Beau Repaire (later corrupted to Bearpark). Some time later the land came under the ownership of Gilbert de la Latone who followed up the good work and was thought to be the Gilbert after whom the village is named.

St Michael’s Church, where we start, was built around 1170 and retains several Norman features; the chancel arch is similar to the Galilee Chapel at Durham and there are two Norman windows in the south wall which will be seen on Stage 4.

Our way takes us out to the north behind some houses to follow a path to Fulforth where we join a bridleway which continues north through Fulforth Wood to arrive at Charlaw. On our right to the east lie the newer parts of Witton Gilbert and its close neighbour Sacriston. The village of Sacriston only goes back to mid 19^th Century when it was built on empty moorland not dissimilar to Waldridge Fell. In 1889 a burial cist from the Bronze Age was uncovered showing that the area had been inhabited for over 3000 years. Similar cists have also been found at Witton Gilbert and the area was settled later by the Saxons as the names Fulforth, Findon, Witton and Edmundsley testify. In 1991 a gold pendant from the 7^th Century (now at Bowes Museum) was unearthed at nearby Daisy Hill but this created a mystery as it was not from northern England. How did it get there? Nobody knows but landfill is thought to be the reason.

Charlaw is also an Anglo Saxon name derived from cerr, pronounced chare .At Charlaw you are on the site of one of the two major collieries here which led to the creation of the village but these closed in 1985. Prior to that there were medieval mines here at Charlaw in 1733 and at Findon Hill but it was the opening of Charlaw Mires in 1839 that attracted the new population. The land on which the mine, operated had previously been farmland. This was given by the famous Bishop Pudsey who gave the land to the Sacrist of Durham who established a farm here. The Sacrists were senior monks who looked after sacred vessels, lighting, heating and cleaning etc. They were also known as sextons or Sacristans derived from the French word Segristan. Following the dissolution of the monasteries in the late 1500s the land passed to Durham Cathedral’s Dean and Chapter. Remnants of their farm survive in the wood where they were known as Heugh House but this was demolished in the 1950s due to mining subsidence.

The way is clear through Sacriston Wood which is a Local Nature reserve (LNR) with a combination of ancient woodland where oak, birch and sycamore dominate, and also some dry grassland. There are also some wet flushes where dogs mercury, wood sorrel and ragged robin grow. On the other side of the valley is Daisy Hill, another LNR where Durham County Council have been planting juniper. Opposite East Farm is a pond where reed mace is abundant.

On reaching Warland (where the Stage 2 reaches Holmside Lane at spot height 149) cross the road to the waymarked path which is just to the left and head down to the footbridge crossing the Whiteside Burn. This burn eventually becomes the Cong Burn which enters the River Wear at Chester-le-Street. You will look in vain for the name Wardles Bridge on your map. This was the name of the pub which was a little further to the left at Warland Green but regrettably, like many rural pubs has sadly closed. At one time it had the largest selection of whisky in the north east.

It is uphill now on Charlaw Lane which is an old route. If there has been dry weather take the footpath on the right (west) past Nursingfield Gill and the north edge of Tatlorshill Plantation to emerge at Standagainstall Plantation at GR187477. Where you reach a good bridleway heading on a north and south line, go south and slightly uphill to reach the road called Long Edge. This bridleway is used on the walk “The Northern Hills of Lanchester”. Turn left along the road in an easterly direction to Taylors Hill where you will meet up with the alternative route. If there has been wet weather continue up Charlaw Lane to arrive at the top of the hill at a transmitter station. It is not difficult to see why this site was chosen as there are fine views to the south to the Cleveland escarpment. Now turn right along Long Edge to Taylors Hill at GR 208477 Here you pick up a fine bridleway heading downhill.

Whichever route is chosen the way is clear along the road to Taylors Hill (GR208477) where a fine bridleway is picked up heading downhill with fine views into the Browney Valley. After just over half a mile we arrive at the remains of Langley Hall. I quote partly from the fine book by Neville Whittaker published by Frank Graham in 1975 which is now probably unavailable called “The Old Halls and Manor Houses of Durham”:

“Langley Hall now remains as a picturesque ruin, set within dark woodland near Witton Gilbert. The estate after several owners passed into the hands of the Scropes, Lords of Bolton Castle in Wensleydale. Lord Scrope married Isabel Dacre from The Dacre and Greystoke estate near Penrith and in the time of Henry VIII it was decided to build a fortified house here. Langley Hall was built around a courtyard in the same manner Haddon Hall in Derbyshire. There was a Great Hall on one side and a kitchen at the north end The west wing was three storeys high.”

Crossing the A691 we proceed through the small industrial estate (noting the pet crematorium) drop down to a bridge over the Browney and climb up to the Lanchester Valley Walkway developed from the Lanchester Valley railway which opened in 1862 and closed in 1965.

Langley Park is mostly bypassed but was a quintessential pit village. The pit, which was owned by the Consett Iron Company, opened in 1875 and remained under their ownership until it was nationalised in 1948. From 1910 to 1930 it employed around 1000 people with the numbers dropping to 800 until it closed in 1975. Langley Park’s most famous son is Sir Bobby Robson who was brought up here. The walkway is followed towards Durham for over a mile to GR231447 where a path is picked up that leads to the bridge over the Browney and up the hill to St Michael’s Church and the start of Stage 4 which is the final stage.