Bill's Walks

John Buchan Way (Peebles to Broughton)

Filed under: Scottish Border Area

Distance: 13 miles
Start: Peebles

Click to view start position on Google Maps

Sometimes in life things happen by accident and the John Buchan Way is a case in point. A group of ten of us had been walking the Border Abbeys Way which is a circular 65 mile walk linking up the border abbeys in the following sections:
Jedburgh to Hawick – 13 miles
Hawick to Selkirk – 12 miles
Selkirk to Melrose – 10 miles
Melrose to Kelso – 18 miles
Kelso to Jedburgh – 12 miles

These sections are not balanced and we jiggled about with the stages involving Melrose by extending the route from Selkirk to Melrose to Clint Mains shortening the 18 mile stage. The section to Selkirk was also shortened due to inclement weather. The walk was done on four occasions and two sections were done over the course of two consecutive days. Our base was the excellent Auld Cross Keys Inn at Denholm superbly ran by Karen and Dave. This is an old coaching inn which has been well modernised and has about ten good quality rooms. A feature is that they are all twins which is good news for both walking groups and golfing groups which also come to this fine area. Denholm is well positioned as the walk is broadly circular and Denholm is near to the hub with no section being more than 40 mins away by car. The inn has real ale as has the Fox and Hounds in the village which is a pleasant change for Scotland and the food is good value with more than adequate portions. The Auld Cross Keys is certainly a recommended place to stay and can be contacted on 01450 870305 or visit their website at www.crosskeysdenholm.co.uk

We went back for a second visit as two of our group had missed out a section (not the same one) so after a little bit of logistics we split into three parties. Two to do the missing sections and the other went on the Alternative Pennine Way from outside of Jedburgh up to the Roman marching camp at Towfoot, under the border ridge. This section of Dere Street is probably the most evocative of the whole of Dere Street due to the quiet situation, the route is still a path and has an old feel. The day ended with us all at Denholm by 6.30pm giving us plenty of time to enjoy a social night together.

The next day was free and we decided to walk the John Buchan Way which was new territory for all of us. The John Buchan Way is a 13 mile route from Peebles to Broughton and as both ends are linked by a good bus service it is easy to do as a linear walk with one car by parking at either end and using the bus. The route opened in 2003 and is named after the writer and diplomat John Buchan (1875-1940) who is probably best known as the writer of “The 39 Steps”. It is very well waymarked and makes use of the many hill tracks in the area with a minimum of road walking.

We set off with average expectations but these were heightened by the well thought out route out of Peebles over Cademuir Hill and its hillforts and fine views all round. We then dropped into the Manor Water which is followed to the Glack which is one house. There is then another pleasant ascent over the hills before you look down on to the Tweed valley and Stobo Kirk. This is only yards off the route and must be visited with the church going back to possibly 1120. A good place for lunch! There is good information in the church concerning Merlin and the stained glass windows.

Leaving Stobo you go off into higher country up the Easton Burn and into remote sheep country under Penvalla. After a drop into a valley containing the isolated farm of Stobo Hopehead it is uphill again to Hammer Head and over the watershed where you follow the Broughton Hope Burn downhill to arrive at Broughton Place. I suggest that here you look back from whence you have came for a super view of the hills encircling you. We took several photos of this view. Broughton Place, contrary to what you expect, is a 20th Century building in the old Scottish style. It contains a fine art gallery and surely there is no other in such a fine position! It is now only a short distance into Broughton and the Laurel Bank Tearoom or the pub but note the fine garden on your right before the pub which is open to visitors. A little further on, also on the right, is the home of Broughton Ales which are recommended and have won many awards. The walk finally ends at the John Buchan Centre also on the right.

This is an absolutely superb walk in remote country where there are no shops and even few houses en route. The path is good underfoot and is on historical old drove routes. We did in fact meet three other walkers from Edinburgh who had came down for the day to do the walk and after completing the walk we have mentioned it to other walkers. All those who have tried it have been full of praise for it. Why not try it yourself – a great place for Bank Holidays away from the crowds.

The Borders Council originally produced excellent leaflets on each section of the Border Abbeys Walk with very detailed maps. Indeed you could walk the route using the maps. These have now been condensed into a book whilst the John Buchan Way is detailed on another leaflet. These can all be obtained from the Tourist Offices at Jedburgh and Melrose and other places on the route, as well as the Countryside Ranger Service HQ at Harestanes on the A68 near Ancrum to the north of Jedburgh, where there also is a shop and a tearoom with excellent scones!This is on the St Cuthberts Way.

Recommended books on this region are Alan Hall’s “The Border Country” from Cicerone, The SMC book “The Southern Uplands” by Ken Andrew and David Steel’s “The Border Country” with fine photos by Charlie Waite.

As regards the Border Abbeys Way, there are better walks for a few days such as the Cumbrian Way or the Dales Way but nevertheless this is a a pleasant walk in generally easy surroundings with plenty of space and some historic small border towns which are always a pleasure to be at.

A gentle area with gentle and friendly people and always the opportunity to take a day off and visit nearby Edinburgh.